By Mark J. Donovan
In Mark Donovan's (of HomeAdditionPlus.com) latest video he goes over the process of how to solder copper plumbing pipes, a.k.a sweating joints.
Soldering copper pipes for small plumbing projects around the home is a fairly straight forward process. All that is required is a propane torch, some lead free solder and flux, and of course some copper pipes and fittings.
Mark's video demonstrates the entire process including: pre-cutting and testing the copper pipes and fittings, preparing the pipes and fittings for solder, soldering the pipes, and finally cleaning them.
Monday, August 27, 2007
By Mark J. Donovan
Posted by TheBuilder at 7:48 AM
Wednesday, August 22, 2007
How to Tape and Mud Sheetrock
By Mark J. Donovan
Taping and mudding sheetrock involves some artistry and craftsmanship. However, most do it yourself homeowners can tape and mud a small sheetrock project with the right knowledge and tool set.
Proper Installation of Sheetrock
It is imperative that the sheetrock be hung properly in order to do a quality taping and mudding sheetrock job.
Sheetrock should be first installed on the ceiling.
After the ceiling has been sheetrocked, you can then move on to the wall. You should start at the top of the walls, by hanging an upper row of sheetrock.
After the first row of sheetrock has been hung on the walls you can then install the second row. It is important that the sheetrock seams be minimized to help ensure a quality finished wall look.
It is also important that the tapered ends of the sheetrock butt up against each other so that they create a slight depression line at approximately half way up the sheetrocked wall. This depression, or recessed area, enables the tape and mud to be applied over the joint seam so as to not create a significant bulge on the sheetrocked wall.
Taping and Mudding Sheetrock
Apply the First Coat of Mud
If you are using sheetrock paper tape, first apply a skim coat of mud, also known as joint compound, over the joint seams before applying the tape.
If you are using the fiberglass sheetrock tape with a sticky backing, you can apply it directly to the sheetrock seams and joints.
Once you have applied the sheetrock tape to the seam or joint, apply a thin skim coat of joint compound over the tape and seam/joint. Use a 6” broad knife to apply the joint compound and run it down the tapeline with long continuous smooth strokes. Do not run the knife perpendicular to the seam or joint with many short strokes. Otherwise you will create many vertical lines that will need to be sanded out. Once you have applied the first coat of joint compound let it dry.
Apply Second Coat of Mud
After the first coat has dried, use a 10” wide broad knife and apply a liberal amount of joint compound along the length of the seam or joint. Again, make long smooth strokes with the broad knife that run parallel to the seam.
When applying the second coat of joint compound, angle the blade slightly such that there is more joint compound left near the center of the seam. Ultimately you want to build up the seam/joint area with a little extra joint compound to fully cover the tape.
Note that this second coat of joint compound should spread out over the seam such that it is approximately 10 inches in width.
Again let this second application of joint compound dry. Usually it will take about 24 hours for it to dry.
Application of Third Coat of Mud
Before applying the third coat of joint compound use your 6” knife to knock off high spots on the sheetrock seam.
Now apply a final skim coat of joint compound over the seam, again feathering out the seam slightly wider than the previous application of joint compound. The purpose of this coat is fill in any miniscule cracks or lines in the existing sheetrock mud seam and to flare the seam out a little more.
Again let this third coat of joint compound dry over night.
Applying Mud to Corners
You may want to purchase Inside and Outside Corner trowels to help in taping and mudding corners. Corners can be a trick and it is where the real artistry comes into play. I would suggest starting in a closet for doing corners to get some experience on areas that will not be seen.
Applying Mud to Nail Holes
As with the seams, apply 3 coats of joint compound to the nail / screw holes. No tape is required for the nail holes.
With each new layer of joint compound, feather out the sheetrock patch so that after the 3rd coat the nail hole is covered with approximately a 6” wide circle of joint compound.
Note that you can apply the mud to the nail holes in parallel with the taping and mudding of seams.
Sanding Joints and Seams
The use of a sheetrock pole sander will produce the best finished drywall look, as well as save you significant time in sanding the joints and seams. I highly recommend the use of one. They are relatively cheap and well worth the investment. A pole sander is about 4-5 feet long and has a flexible 3.25”x9” head on it that you apply sheetrock mesh sheets to. You can also use a sheetrock hand sander as well.
When sanding the joints and seams make long smooth strokes with the pole or hand sander that run parallel to the seam. Apply less pressure to the middle of the seam and more toward the edges to feather out the edge of the joint seam.
It is important that you sand the edges of the seam so that they completely feather out to a smooth finish with the sheetrock. As you near the edges of the seam, you can turn the angle of your pole sander such that it is on a 45o angle.
Priming and Painting the Walls
With the sanding of the seams and joints complete, wipe down the walls with a damp rag to remove the sheetrock mud dust.
Next apply a coat of primer.
Finally apply two coats of paint, and your ready for trimming out the room.
Posted by TheBuilder at 8:03 AM
Monday, August 13, 2007
By Mark J. Donovan
Leveling compounds are ideal for smoothing out a subfloor surface prior to installing ceramic floor tiles. To ensure your ceramic floor tiles will not crack over time, it is critical that they be installed on a rigid and level subfloor.
Leveling compounds are cement based and are easy to apply. They will adhere well to both concrete and wood surfaces.
When preparing a floor for the installation of ceramic floor tile, additional material is typically installed over the home’s existing base subfloor. The existing subfloor is normally constructed out of concrete, 3/4th inch OSB, or plywood. Concrete, backerboard, or exterior plywood is normally added to the subfloor to increase the rigidity of the floor surface. The more level and rigid the floor, the less likelihood of the ceramic tiles cracking.
To ensure that the floor surface is level and rigid, a leveling compound may be needed, The leveling compound can be added to the floor to adjust for any dips or humps in the subfloor. Dips and humps can occur due to imperfections in the concrete slab or floor joists, or from warping in the base subfloor.
The subfloor should be clean and dust free, prior to applying a leveling compound to your subfloor. If it is not, you may get a poor bond between the leveling compound and the subfloor.
To apply leveling compounds, you can use a trowel, broad knife, and/or a length of 2”x4”.
Use the length of 2”x”4, to see how much leveling compound you will need, by running it over the surface of the subfloor to see how much of a dip or hump you have to deal with.
Note that leveling compounds set up quickly. Consequently, it is best to make up small batches at a time.
Posted by TheBuilder at 9:18 AM
Sunday, August 05, 2007
By Mark J. Donovan
Mark Donovan of HomeAdditionPlus.com shows you how to remove old caulk around a bathtub and how to apply new caulk around it.
It is important to apply a bead of silicone caulk where the bathtub meets the bathroom floor to prevent water damage to the bathroom floor.
Posted by TheBuilder at 6:15 AM