Should you Sell before the Housing Bubble Pops

For the past several years housing prices have risen dramatically. With interest rates continuously moving up, and more and more people being priced out of the market, all signs point to an imminent housing market correction. So should you sell your home now before prices drop or should you stick it out and see what happens? It really depends on your individual situation.

Let’s face it, we all need a place to live and the world and United States population continues to grow. Any correction in the housing market will inevitably be short lived, relatively speaking. Historically it is not uncommon to see house prices drop 10-20% during a correction cycle and for these cycles to last several years. Inevitably, however, the housing market recovers and prices continue to rise over the long run.

Before a homeowner decides to sell out to beat the housing market, he or she should first decide what their 5 and 10 year plans are and what their home needs will be. If the plan is to stay in the same community and that the current home will meet their long term needs, e.g. enough bedrooms for a growing young family, then there should be no real reason to sell out. Unless of course your feeling lucky and want to gamble. However, if you sell out too early you may find yourself priced out of a new home and stuck in an apartment for much longer than you planned. As most financial investors will advise, it is not wise to time the market. Instead invest on a regular basis that suits your long term financial goals. Your home will probably be your biggest investment, so as with other financial investments, attempting to time the market is ill-advised.

On the other hand, if your medium or long range plan includes moving to another community and/or requiring a change in housing needs then it may be wise to take advantage of a sellers market. For example, if the children have all grown up and left the nest and you have been contemplating downsizing it probably is wise to take advantage of a sellers market.

Whatever the market conditions are, when deciding to buy or sell a house, first evaluate your own specific goals and plans, and then assess the market conditions. If the current housing market condition is favorable with your goals, then certainly take advantage of it. If it is not, then reassess your plans and see if your timeline can be stretched out to await better market conditions. If they can not, then indeed, you may need to make a less than favorable housing decision to meet you longer term goals.

Installing a Countertop Sink

While remodeling a bathroom recently I needed to install a bathroom countertop sink. I used a self rimming drop-in bowl as they are the easiest to install.

Cut the hole in the Countertop

I first needed to cut out a hole in the countertop for the bowl to sit in.

The sink came with a template for making the hole. I just found the center of the countertop and positioned the template such that it was centered over my center mark on the countertop.

I then traced around the template. I used a little tape to hold the template down while I traced.

I then drilled a couple of 1/4” holes so that I had a place to insert my jigsaw and begin cutting. I then cut out the hole.

I then temporarily put the bowl into the hole to see how it fit. I then removed it to assemble the faucet and drain assemblies. You don’t want to put the bowl in and then assemble the faucet assembly, unless of course you like to contort yourself.

Installation of the drain pipe and faucet assembly

Once I confirmed that the sink bowl would fit properly in the hole, I then assembled the drain assembly to the bowl. I first attached the metal drain pipe with the gasket, washers and locknut to the drain hole in the bottom of the bowl. Note that I used a little plumbing putty around the gasket and washer to ensure a waterproof seal.

I then installed the faucet, and the hot and cold supply lines to the bowl, using the washers and nuts supplied.

Final installation of the Sink Bowl into the Countertop

With this particular sink bowl it was so heavy that all I did was apply a bead of plumbers putty underneath the lip of the bowl prior to placing the bowl in the sink. I did not use any other type of mounting mechanism. For lighter sink bowls, there are mounting clips that can be used to securely snug the bowl to the countertop.

For a finishing touch I applied a white bead of silicon caulk around the edge of the bowl to get a waterproof seal.

Finally I connected the faucet supply hoses to the supply lines that protruded out of the wall and into the vanity. I then turned the supply valves on and I was in business.

How to Install Gutters and Downspouts

Not too long ago I broke down and decided to install gutters and downspouts on one side of my home. For years I avoided doing this as I was concerned about frequently cleaning out and unclogging the gutters and downspouts throughout the year, and dealing with Ice Damns in the winter. I broke down, however, as I was realizing the water bouncing up off of the deck was beginning to cause damage to the side of my house.

The installation of gutters and downspouts is a simple project that any homeowner can do on a weekend. Basic PVC, aluminum and galvanized metal gutter material are available at most hardware stores. With a few basic tools you can install anyone of these types of gutters and downspout systems in a matter of hours. In my case I used the PVC type as it required no soldering or cutting/bending of metal.

Tools required for installing PVC gutters

Ladder, stainless steel or galvanized nails or screws, chalk line, hammer, screw gun, pencil, and hack saw.

Gutter and Downspout parts

Measure the length of the roof and the height of where the downspouts are to be located, and order 10% in excess of the total length measured. You will need to order the gutters, down spouts, end caps, downspout brackets and hangers and various joints to interconnect the pieces together.

Note that most basic gutter pieces come in lengths of 10 feet.

Establish a Chalk Line

Establish a chalk line on the trim board that sits just under the edge of the shingles. Note that the gutters should have a pitch downward towards the downspout. The pitch should drop 1 inch for every 16 feet of gutter. The lowest point of the gutter is where the down spout should go.

If there are to be downspouts on either side of the length of gutter, then the middle of the gutter run should be at the highest point. The ends, where the downspouts will reside, should be at the lowest point.

Install the mounting hangers

Screw or nail the mounting hangers to the trim board, such that the top of the gutter will rest in line with the chalk line.

Install the gutter

Install the gutter onto the mounting hangers. The gutter simply clips into the mounting hangers. Note that with a long gutter run, you may need coupling joints that marry two lengths of gutter together. Use your hacksaw to cut the gutters to the appropriate lengths. You will also need to add the end unit connector joints, with the downspout sleeves and end caps attached. Note that all of these connector joints have a rubber seal that prevents leaking.

Install the downspouts

Measure the length of downspout necessary to connect from the base of the gutter to the ground. You will also need to account for a number of 45 and 90 degree angle connectors to transition the downspout to the edge of the house.

Simply snap the sections together and attach the downspouts to the house using downspout brackets and screws/nails.

Attach a 90 degree elbow joint at the end of the down spout to direct the water away from the home and you are done.

Exterior Painting on an Old House

Power Wash, Scrape and Complete External Repairs

If you have an old house, or a house that has been previously painted, the house should be entirely pressure washed and scraped prior to painting. The siding should have sufficient time to completely dry after power washing.

In addition, putty any dings in the siding, or if the area has significant water damage you may want to literally reside the affected area. Also, make sure all nails are properly sunk into the wood. You may even want to putty in the nail holes for a really finished look.

Apply Primer

If you are planning to paint the house a different color than the current one, a primer should be first applied that is of similar color as the new paint. The primer helps to mask the previous color, makes the paint adhere better to the wood siding, and provides a more uniform look.

Check the Weather Report

Make sure the weather will be dry and sunny long enough for you to complete the painting task scheduled for the day and to allow time for it to dry. Typically most paints require the temperature to be at least 50 degrees for proper application and drying.

Also avoid painting directly in the sun, so plan your painting accordingly, e.g. paint the west facing side in the morning and the east facing side in the afternoon.

Assemble the right Equipment

You will probably need ladders as well as paint buckets, brushes and potentially paint sprayers. You should also have rags, twine and drop clothes at hand.

Cover the surrounding Area

Cover the surrounding shrubs and flowerbeds with drop clothes. You may want to use twine to tie up the shrubs so that they don’t rub up against the house.

Paint the Windows and Doors, and associated Trim First

Paint the doors, windows and associated trim first, as this will prevent ladder marks on the otherwise newly painted siding. Make sure you leave the windows open a little so that the window paint has time to dry, thus alleviating stuck windows.

Paint the Siding Last

Start the siding painting at the top and work left to right and down, moving the ladder frequently to prevent lap marks.

Exterior painting is a big undertaking for a homeowner. Prior to starting this job, develop a reasonable schedule and staffing needs (spouse, friends, and children help). If it looks like you will lack the time or help, then consider employing a painting contractor rather than waiting on painting the house. The longer you wait on a badly needed exterior paint job, the higher the risk the home will suffer significantly from weather damage.

Exterior Painting on a New Home

Complete External Repairs

Putty any dings in the siding, or if the area has significant damage you may want to literally reside the area. Make sure all nails are properly sunk into the wood. You may even want to putty in the nail holes for a really finished look.

Apply Primer

Prior to applying exterior paint to your new home, a primer should first be applied if the siding is not already pre-primed. The primer helps the paint adhere to the wood siding and provides a more uniform look.

If it is an existing home and you are re-painting, use a power washer to remove dirt and grime from the siding. Priming is probably not necessary if the paint color is to remain the same or stay similar.

Check the Weather Report

Make sure the weather will be dry and sunny long enough for you to complete the painting task scheduled for the day and to allow time for it to dry. Typically most paints require the temperature to be at least 50 degrees for proper application and drying.

Also avoid painting directly in the sun, so plan your painting accordingly, e.g. paint the west facing side in the morning and the east facing side in the afternoon.

Assemble the right Equipment

You will probably need ladders as well as paint buckets, brushes and potentially paint sprayers. You should also have rags, twine and drop clothes at hand.

Cover the Surrounding Area

Cover the surrounding shrubs and flowerbeds with drop clothes. You may want to use twine to tie up the shrubs so that they don’t rub up against the house.

Paint the Windows and Doors, and associated Trim First

Paint the doors, windows and associated trim first, as this will prevent ladder marks on the otherwise newly painted siding. Make sure you leave the windows open a little so that the window paint has time to dry, thus alleviating stuck windows.

Paint the Siding Last

Start the siding painting at the top and work left to right and down, moving the ladder frequently to prevent lap marks.

Exterior painting is a big undertaking for a homeowner. Prior to starting this job, develop a reasonable schedule and staffing needs (spouse, friends, and children help). If it looks like you will lack the time or help, then consider employing a painting contractor rather than waiting on painting the house. The longer you wait on applying the exterior paint, the higher risk the home will have to weather damage.

Basement Waterproofing – A Must When Finishing a Basement

When planning to finish your basement it is very important to consider basement waterproofing prior to any construction. If waterproofing is not done your finished basement may become at risk for mold and water damage.

Installing gutters on the outside of the house, and an outside ground topology that slopes away from the foundation will help, but it is probably not enough. The reason for this is that it is the level of the hydrostatic pressure that really determines how susceptible your basement is for water leaks and dampness. Hydrostatic pressure increases proportionally with the amount of rainfall. The higher the hydrostatic pressure, the more water in the ground. This pressure effectively pushes water down and around the foundation. The water then seeps into the foundation walls causing dampness in the basement. If the walls actually have cracks, the water can literally seep through causing puddles inside the basement. The water can also seep in between the foundation walls and footing if the hydrostatic pressure is high enough.

The best way to waterproof your basement is by relieving this hydrostatic pressure. The most dramatic way is to dig down and around the foundation and put in sand, gravel and pipes that will quickly drain the water away from the house, thus alleviating the pressure.

There are other methods that are less severe and costly, such as waterproof basement sealers that can be painted on the inside foundation walls and floor, or the installation of sump pumps and dehumidifiers, but these solutions do not really relieve the hydrostatic pressure. Instead they just work to offset the moisture that penetrates the foundation walls and floor due to the hydrostatic pressure.

Land Selection when Building a Custom Home

Prior to developing the plans for your custom home, you should first consider where you want to build it. Land selection is just as important as the blue prints for the home itself. As a matter of fact, the technical aspects of the land, such as the water table and contour of the land will play a significant role in determining the final plans of the house. For example, if town sewer is not available, the water table will control the look, size and location of your leach field, and the contour of the land will dictate the height of foundation walls.

Besides the technical aspects of the building site, land selection should also involve important factors such as choice of community (rural verses urban), school districts, shopping areas, town utilities, highways and airport traffic, climate, and area topology (flood plains, or high and dry).

The topology of the actual building site can play a major role in the cost of building a home. Items such as grading, fill, tree removal and drainage can be expensive costs depending on the actual conditions of the site. These costs need to be accounted for when developing the plans and budget for the new home construction.

Title searches, a site survey, perk tests (if a leach field is required), and a review of the local zoning and building codes should be performed prior to purchasing the land to ensure there will be no issues when construction begins. For example, it is critical to know that the targeted property is zoned for single-family residential homes and not commercial or industrial.

Once all of these factors have been addressed and no major issues have been uncovered, the property can then be purchased and the home plans finalized.

An Alternative to Floor Joist Hangers

When building a deck, where the underside of the deck will be highly visible, it may be aesthetically more attractive to use a ledger strip verses joist hangers when installing the floor joists. For example, if the deck sits high off the ground, such as is the case when it resides over a walkout finished basement, a ledger strip will provide a cleaner look to the underside of the deck.

A ledger strip is simply a strip of lumber nailed along the bottom of the ledger board that attaches to the side of the house and to the deck front band/header. The ledger strip is typically about 1.5” to 2” in height and 1.5” in width.

The deck floor joists rest on the ledger strips and are attached by toe nailing the floor joists into the ledger board and front band/header. The result, a very structurally strong solution and a much cleaner look to the underside of the deck.

Note: The ledger board and the front and side bands will need to be approximately 1.5" to 2” taller than the floor joists to account for the ledger strip height.

Granite Countertops – The Ideal Choice for the Home Addition

Granite is used today for many home improvement projects. It is used for Kitchen and Bath Countertops, Fireplace Surrounds, Mantels and Hearths, Bartops and Conference Tables.

Granite is a coarse grained crystalline igneous rock composed primarily of quartz and feldspar. It forms from slowly cooling magma that is subjected to extreme pressures deep beneath the earth's surface.

Granite is found throughout the world and is commercially available in thousands of types. In the United States there are abundant supplies in the Northeast, particularly in New Hampshire. As a matter of fact, New Hampshire is known as the Granite State.

Today, Kitchen Designers increasingly recommend Granite as the countertop surface of choice. Though synthetic solid surface products such as Silestone are available today in many colors and patterns, they still do not match the performance (e.g. heat resistance), richness, and depth, of granite. Granite’s diamond-like hardness and its imperviousness to abrasions, stains and extreme heat make it ideal for kitchen countertops. It is also the least porous of most commercially used stone, thus eliminating the need for frequent sealing. Granite is also a timeless choice due to its natural occurrence.

Pricing

Granite pricing can vary, but expect to pay $80-$110 per square foot. In addition there will be installation charges.

Granite Care and Maintenance

Granite is relatively simple to care for. With a clean rag, wipe the surfaces with a few drops of a neutral cleaner or mild dishwashing detergent and warm water. Thoroughly rinse the surface after washing with the soap solution and dry with a separate soft cloth.

Note: Do not use products that contain vinegar, lemon, or other acids as this could etch the granite surface. Also, do not use scouring pads or creams, as this will scratch the surface.
Where Granite is used in wet applications, use a squeegee after each use to prevent soap film buildup. You can also use non-acidic soap scum remover. Do not use an ammonia type product as this will eventually wear aware the shine of the granite surface.

A stone sealer should be applied occasionally to prevent absorption of materials that could stain the granite surface. There are a number of Granite sealers on the market that can simply be sprayed on, and then the excess wiped off. Depending on the absorbency of the stone, resealing should be performed from once a year up to 5 years. The finer grained granites are usually more absorbent and will require more frequent sealing. With today’s technology in sealing products, staining rarely occurs.

Radon Gas in Homes and Lung Cancer

Unsuspecting homeowners may not realize the full risks associated with Radon gas in their homes. Increasing evidence suggests that Radon gas is the most underestimated cause of Lung Cancer. Radon gas can occur anywhere, however some areas of the United States are known to have abnormally high levels of this potentially deadly gas. Though Radon gas can be found in every state, the highest concentration levels are in the Northeast and the upper Midwest of the United States.

If Radon gas can be dissipated from homes and into the atmosphere it is relatively harmless. However, when Radon enters homes and stays trapped, which can frequently happen with today’s more tightly sealed homes; the gas can become a health problem.

The Radon gas typically enters a home from a basement. If the basement is not adequately vented to the outside atmosphere the gas can build up to high levels within the home.

There are differing opinions about the minimum safe levels, however the evidence continues to grow that Radon may be the most underestimated cause of lung cancer. Radon gas may be particularly more dangerous to children, smokers and those who spend much of their time indoors.

When purchasing a new home, make sure a Home Inspection is performed and that the Home Inspector checks for Radon levels. The cost for a Radon test is minimal and well worth it. If high levels of Radon gas are detected proper ventilation systems should be added to the home. The costs of such ventilation systems are again quite reasonable.