With Home Sales Rebounding in February is an Improving Housing Market Right around the Corner

By Mark J. Donovan

There is a sign that the housing market may be beginning to bottom out. The National Association of Realtors (NAR) reported that home sales increased 2.9% in February.

This is certainly a positive sign in the housing market; however the rest of the news with this report was not so good. The report also indicated that housing prices dropped precipitously, with the average medium sale price on existing homes falling to $195,900. The NAR reported this was the biggest year over year price drop in existing home sales since 1999.

Whether or not this is truly the beginning of a recovery of the housing market or not, getting a little positive news in a market that has gone through a major correction over the past couple of years is a good sign of things to eventually come.

Watch Out for the Arrogant Contractor

By Mark J. Donovan

It has been about 2.5 years now since I started HomeAdditionPlus.com and HomeAddition.blogspot.com. I created these sites to share my experiences, and allow others to share theirs, on home construction projects. As I have always made it clear, I am not a professional contractor. By profession I am an electrical engineer, and marketing manager who has worked in the high tech industry for 25 years. This said, I am also a veteran homeowner of 20+ years who has gone through many home addition, home remodeling and home construction projects.

My experience with home construction began as a 10 year old kid, helping my father build a couple of family room additions, sheds, and two houses. Since purchasing my own first home, I have completed many home construction projects. My projects have included finishing basements and unfinished upstairs, putting on attached garages and family rooms, remodeling kitchens and bathrooms, and even acting as my own general contractor on building one of my homes. This final project, building my own custom home, was actually showcased on the DIY Network back in 2005 (Being your Own General Contractor – Vacation Homes).

One of the greatest skills I have learned throughout my years being involved in home construction projects is how to find the right building contractor. In particular, I have learned how to discern the differences between a good contractor and an arrogant contractor. Note that I say arrogant contractor and not a bad contractor. Bad contractors are usually easy to spot, if you check their references and you ask a few questions. The arrogant contractor, on the other hand is a little cagier. As a matter of fact, the arrogant contractor may actually be good at his trade. However, he is the type of contractor that is impossible to work with. He is the primo Dona that talks a lot of bravado. He’s the guy that wants you to work your build schedule around his. He is inflexible and is always right, and is never hesitant to tell you this fact.

My experience has been to avoid the arrogant contractor like the plague. He is the type of contractor that forgets you’ve hired him, and instead thinks you work for him. Besides being just plain obnoxious to deal with, this type of contractor also has the tendency to fast talk you into spending more money than you need or having extra work done that is not required.

The trick is identifying the arrogant contractor, before you’ve hired him. Over the years I have learned a few basic techniques in exposing the arrogant contractor before I have hired him.

First, always check the references. Make sure when you call or visit the references you ask them how was their experience working with the contractor. If the reference expounds on the virtues of the contractor for 15 minutes you probably have identified a contractor that you will be able to work with. On the other hand, if the reference gives you a “yes, he got the job done” type answer, then this should be a warning sign. Don’t hesitate to probe further with the reference.

Second, find out who the prospective contractor uses as his material suppliers. Visit the suppliers and ask them their experience with the contractor. You’ll quickly learn if he pays his bills on time and is good to work with. If the contractor does not want to share with you his material suppliers’ names, then this is a clear warning sign to stay away from him.

Third, interview the prospective contractor when he provides you with a bid for the project. Really try to get to know the contractor during this process. If during the interview, you feel the contractor is dismissing your questioning or is giving you half answers, then stay away from him. Do not assume that he is just a busy guy that doesn’t have time for your naïve questions. If he is unwilling to explain his bid thoroughly during the proposal phase of a project, then chances are he will become even more difficult to work with once he has your signature on his contract and your deposit in the bank.

Finally, place a couple of calls to him during the bidding / proposal phase of your home construction project. See if he returns your calls promptly and answers your questions. If he does not, chances are you are seeing how he will operate once you have hired him.

To conclude, there are many good contractors to choose from when starting a new home construction project. You just have to find them. The fundamental technique in finding a good contractor for you building project is to get to know him first, before you sign a contract with him. Make sure you check the references and suppliers, and spend some time with him during the bidding phase of your project to really get to know him. If the references check out, and you feel completely comfortable with him during the proposal phase of the project, chances are you have avoided hiring the arrogant contractor.

Ceramic Tile Calculator

By Mark J. Donovan

Finally a Ceramic Tile Calculator that is easy to understand and gives accurate results. Check out HomeAdditionPlus.com's Ceramic tile Calculator. It allows you to specify your tile area, and select (via drop down menus) your required surface tile and border tile sizes. Its easy to use and its free!!

Check out the Ceramic Tile Calculator at HomeAdditionPlus.com today!!!

Preparing your Home for Winter

By Mark J. Donovan

With summer unofficially over, it is now time to think about making sure your home is ready for the winter ahead.

First, make sure the caulk around your windows and doors is still forming a tight seal. If not, remove the old caulk and replace it with fresh caulk. Air infiltration is high around leaky windows.

Second, check the roof. Make sure there are no loose shingles and that the ridge vents are securely fastened to the roof. Replace any broken shingles and re-secure the ridge vents if they have come loose. Make sure any exposed roofing nails are covered in roofing tar.

Third, have your furnace system cleaned and checked by a professional. In the process make sure the air filters are replaced with new ones.

Fourth, drain all lawn hoses and store inside the garage or basement. If the hoses are left outside during the winter months, the water in them can freeze and expand, which can lead to hose damage.

Fifth, if your water heater is not wrapped in insulation, then do so. Wrapping your hot water heater in insulation can save you significant money on your energy bills.

Sixth, have your chimney flues cleaned. Built up creosol due to burning wood can lead to chimney fires. Also, the chimney flues should be checked for cracks. Chimney flue cracks can also cause chimney fires.

Seven, make sure the gutters are clean and free from leaves and debris. Otherwise they will cause snow and ice to build up which could lead to failed gutters.

Eight, attach storm windows to your home’s exterior windows to help curb heat loss.

Taping and Mudding Sheetrock

How to Tape and Mud Sheetrock

By Mark J. Donovan

Taping and mudding sheetrock involves some artistry and craftsmanship. However, most do it yourself homeowners can tape and mud a small sheetrock project with the right knowledge and tool set.

Proper Installation of Sheetrock

It is imperative that the sheetrock be hung properly in order to do a quality taping and mudding sheetrock job.

Sheetrock should be first installed on the ceiling.

After the ceiling has been sheetrocked, you can then move on to the wall. You should start at the top of the walls, by hanging an upper row of sheetrock.

After the first row of sheetrock has been hung on the walls you can then install the second row. It is important that the sheetrock seams be minimized to help ensure a quality finished wall look.

It is also important that the tapered ends of the sheetrock butt up against each other so that they create a slight depression line at approximately half way up the sheetrocked wall. This depression, or recessed area, enables the tape and mud to be applied over the joint seam so as to not create a significant bulge on the sheetrocked wall.

Taping and Mudding Sheetrock

Apply the First Coat of Mud

If you are using sheetrock paper tape, first apply a skim coat of mud, also known as joint compound, over the joint seams before applying the tape.

If you are using the fiberglass sheetrock tape with a sticky backing, you can apply it directly to the sheetrock seams and joints.

Once you have applied the sheetrock tape to the seam or joint, apply a thin skim coat of joint compound over the tape and seam/joint. Use a 6” broad knife to apply the joint compound and run it down the tapeline with long continuous smooth strokes. Do not run the knife perpendicular to the seam or joint with many short strokes. Otherwise you will create many vertical lines that will need to be sanded out. Once you have applied the first coat of joint compound let it dry.

Apply Second Coat of Mud

After the first coat has dried, use a 10” wide broad knife and apply a liberal amount of joint compound along the length of the seam or joint. Again, make long smooth strokes with the broad knife that run parallel to the seam.

When applying the second coat of joint compound, angle the blade slightly such that there is more joint compound left near the center of the seam. Ultimately you want to build up the seam/joint area with a little extra joint compound to fully cover the tape.

Note that this second coat of joint compound should spread out over the seam such that it is approximately 10 inches in width.

Again let this second application of joint compound dry. Usually it will take about 24 hours for it to dry.

Application of Third Coat of Mud

Before applying the third coat of joint compound use your 6” knife to knock off high spots on the sheetrock seam.

Now apply a final skim coat of joint compound over the seam, again feathering out the seam slightly wider than the previous application of joint compound. The purpose of this coat is fill in any miniscule cracks or lines in the existing sheetrock mud seam and to flare the seam out a little more.

Again let this third coat of joint compound dry over night.

Applying Mud to Corners

You may want to purchase Inside and Outside Corner trowels to help in taping and mudding corners. Corners can be a trick and it is where the real artistry comes into play. I would suggest starting in a closet for doing corners to get some experience on areas that will not be seen.

Applying Mud to Nail Holes

As with the seams, apply 3 coats of joint compound to the nail / screw holes. No tape is required for the nail holes.

With each new layer of joint compound, feather out the sheetrock patch so that after the 3rd coat the nail hole is covered with approximately a 6” wide circle of joint compound.

Note that you can apply the mud to the nail holes in parallel with the taping and mudding of seams.

Sanding Joints and Seams

The use of a sheetrock pole sander will produce the best finished drywall look, as well as save you significant time in sanding the joints and seams. I highly recommend the use of one. They are relatively cheap and well worth the investment. A pole sander is about 4-5 feet long and has a flexible 3.25”x9” head on it that you apply sheetrock mesh sheets to. You can also use a sheetrock hand sander as well.

When sanding the joints and seams make long smooth strokes with the pole or hand sander that run parallel to the seam. Apply less pressure to the middle of the seam and more toward the edges to feather out the edge of the joint seam.

It is important that you sand the edges of the seam so that they completely feather out to a smooth finish with the sheetrock. As you near the edges of the seam, you can turn the angle of your pole sander such that it is on a 45o angle.

Priming and Painting the Walls

With the sanding of the seams and joints complete, wipe down the walls with a damp rag to remove the sheetrock mud dust.

Next apply a coat of primer.

Finally apply two coats of paint, and your ready for trimming out the room.