If You're Looking for a Quieter Home, Start with the Right Plumbing

(ARA) - With the cost of building the average home higher than ever, buyers are demanding higher quality in both the materials used during construction, as well as the workmanship. Although quality is subjective, there are some tangible ways to help consumers compare homes. One measurement that is receiving more focus these days is the noise level within the home.

Things like squeaky floors or doors, rattling windows or a dripping faucet typically reflect low quality materials or poor workmanship -- neither of which is well tolerated by today's more educated buyer. In response to consumers' lower tolerance levels for noise inside the house, manufacturers have invested heavily in technologies and materials that soften the noise of their products. That's why today's dishwashers, washing machines and even refrigerators run quieter than the early models. In addition, builders are finding buyers more receptive to paying extra for added insulation or other soundproofing materials designed to provide a sense of seclusion within the home.

As you evaluate your next home and determine if it's quiet enough for your tastes, you might want to start by looking in some unlikely places, such as the bathroom and basement. That's because much of your home's plumbing pipe runs behind bathroom walls and along basement ceilings.

"If you don't think household plumbing pipe is a major source of noise, you may want to think back to the last time someone in your household used the bathroom late at night to shower or flush the toilet while you were trying to sleep," says Garry Gage, a 30-year plumbing veteran and a field consultant for FlowGuard Gold CPVC Pipe and Fittings. "Water flow noise can be very noticeable depending on the type of pipe you have, but not quite as annoying as water hammer (the banging sound you hear through the pipes when a faucet is turned off quickly or the water pressure changes for some reason)."

Gage points out that years ago people didn't have many options for minimizing plumbing pipe noise unless they wanted to pay for added insulation around all of their pipes. Today, however, there are alternative pipe materials that offer a significantly quieter operation than traditional copper plumbing. CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride) is one such material that is growing in popularity, not only because it's quieter but also because it offers a long list of other competitive advantages, such as higher energy efficiency and less condensation. More important from a service life standpoint is that CPVC pipe will never corrode, pit or scale. So no pinhole leaks to cause costly damage, no copper leaching into the family's drinking water supply, and no problems with decreased water flow over the years.

NSF International, a third-party testing lab, recently ran a test that confirmed a FlowGuard Gold CPVC plumbing system is, in fact, four times quieter than copper pipe. The test specifically documented the dBA (human ear response) level for the FlowGuard Gold pipe at 35.9 versus 55.4 for standard copper pipe. To put the 19.5 dBA sound level difference between the two pipes in perspective, consider that the human whisper at 25 dBA approximates the noise level of water running through a FlowGuard Gold pipe, versus a washing machine at 65 dBA, which is close to the level of noise of water flowing through a copper pipe.

Other common noise levels register as follows:

Rustle of leaves -- less than 20 decibels

Normal human conversation -- between 60 and 70 decibels

Busy street traffic -- between 70 and 80 decibels

Jack hammer -- approximately 100 decibels

Rocket ship -- between 110 and 120 decibels

There is no mystery as to why the FlowGuard Gold CPVC system is so much quieter: CPVC is a natural "insulator" and copper is a natural "conductor." Also, CPVC is considerably more flexible than copper, which means that it can more readily absorb noise compared to copper which is more rigid and more likely to transmit the sound.

So the next time you're in the market for a new home, and you could really use a little more peace and quiet (as well as a little less corrosion, scaling, condensation and energy loss), you might want to put science to work for you and opt for the quieter plumbing alternative -- CPVC.

For more information about the benefits of CPVC plumbing pipe, visit www.flowguardgold.com.

Courtesy of ARA Content

Different Materials Used for Roofing and Determining the Cost of Each One

There is never a structure you will find that lacks a roof; it is an essential part of the house or building. It plays a very important role of providing protection and shelter much like the walls. It must be sturdy and durable yet stylish. Many a structure is defined by their roofs. They could be made by a multitude of materials and their designs may vary. Since time immemorial, man has found different ways with different materials to build their roofs, each with different characteristics and advantages and disadvantages. As more materials are discovered with each of their own high and low points, they can be very useful in different types of location depending on the weather and location.

As with any building, housing or structural projects, there are many aspects that influences the final decision in which materials to use for roofing and one of them is cost. Here in this article, you will see the advantages and disadvantages plus the average costs, as costs may vary in different states, in the use of different materials for roofing. The cost of roofing referred herein this article is subjected to the breakdown of the roofing material per one hundred square feet. Remember, roofing costs may add up with the labor and other materials needed for installation, this refers only to the roofing materials utilized.

Building your dream house relies on a number of aspects; there is the location, the design, the restrictions of the area, the budget and a plethora of others. It is the same thing with the roof; you have to consider a number of items to get the perfect roof to suit your taste. Basically it is the overall design and materials used in the structure as well as the location and the local restrictions. Here are some of the more basic roofing materials used and the roofing costs to consider per one hundred square feet.

The most commonly used roofing material utilized nowadays is the asphalt shingles. This form is shingles is categorized into two; the organic and the non-organic (fiberglass). They are produced in a wide variety of colors and are rated by their lifespan and durability. They can range from between 20 to 40 years. Asphalt shingles can be customized by providing additional layers giving them a different shadow line. Many asphalt shingle manufacturers provide warranty to their products especially if the certified roofers install them. Asphalt shingles may range from 30 to 35 dollars for every hundred square feet.

Another roofing material that takes the form of shingles is those made from wood. Usually, wood shingles are made from Western Red Cedar; the reason behind this is that this kind of wood is highly resistant to decay and corrosion. Wood shingles are categorized into three kinds, one, two and three. The first type, number one, is more recommended for roofing because they are more durable, the second and third are better for sidings. They are usually sold tapered and in different sizes. Wood shingles roofing cost ranges from 80 to 170 dollars.

Another roofing material that utilizes wood from cedar is the wood shakes roofing material. They are used to provide a natural look, they are either sawed or hand split. Its distinct look has a side with an irregular unique look from the others while the other side has a natural thinner line for a tapered look. Wood shakes are classified by their weight and their sizes. Roofing costs for wood shake are from 70 to a hundred dollars for every one hundred square feet.

The most durable roofing material is made either from clay or concrete. They can be relied upon to provide service from fifty to a hundred years. The most common form is in the half-barrel or somewhat corrugated shape, but it is not uncommon to find flat or tapered styles. But because of their weight, clay or concrete roofing materials may need extra weight in the rafters adding more to the roofing costs which may run with the roofing materials between 150 to 400 dollars per a hundred square feet area.

About the Author: Online entrepreneur Sara Jenkins, is dedicated to helping others and their needs to succeed in life by offering free payroll tips everyday. To learn more about her free roofing tips, and to sign up for her FREE Roofing articles and FREE bonus how-to books and resources, visit http://www.RoofingUp.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

Discovering Fiberglass Roofing Panels for Your Roofing Needs

Roofs are an integral part of the house. The design of a roof tells a lot about the structure. They can be stylish, grand, historical, modern, versatile and so much more. When designing a house, building or any structure, the roof cant be taken for granted, they must be complimenting the whole design and yet, will be very durable and resistant to nature’s elements. That is why; designers take into consideration a lot of things like the weather, the winds, the location of the structure and much more, all of them makes an influence on the design of the roof and what kind of roofing materials to use. There are many forms wherein roofs are designed and constructed. They could either be flat, pitched, vaulted, domed or combinations of those types. As stated, these designs are influenced by considerations regarding technical, regional and aesthetic factors.

Since time immemorial, man have found and used different materials to use as materials for the roofs of their houses. Some of the early roofing materials used where leaves, rocks, wood, stones then as time and man progresses more and more have been discovered. Roofing materials made out of asphalt, cement, wood, and synthetic materials like fiberglass and other innovative materials. These new roofing materials have proven to be durable, reliable and lightweight. They can be manufactured in any shape and in any color making them a good alternative if not the outright choice.

Fiberglass has gained quite a following in the past few decades, because of their malleability they can be formed into anything with relative ease. They can also be very tough and durable yet be lightweight and easy to handle. With those characteristics, fiberglass is a good material to be used for roofing. Fiberglass first was introduced in 1938, as the name implies, fiberglass is made from very fine fibers of glass. This revolutionary product then has long been developed and provided with fresh innovations to form other types of roofing panels, which caters to different needs. The flexibility and versatility of fiberglass roofing panel materials makes it a very popular choice.

Fiberglass roofing panels can be shaped as corrugated roofing panels, shingles roofing panels, tapered roofing panels and so much more. Being synthetically produced somewhat, they are easy to manipulate to form shapes, used as composite material, provided different colors and other designs and textures that the manufacturers or public desire. It doesn’t matter what type or form the design of your roof is, a fiberglass roofing panel will provide your roof with a tough and durable membrane, as well as provide it with great looking cover and protection.
Fiberglass roofing panels provide great waterproof sealing for the roof, especially when installed properly. Many fiberglass roofing panels producers provide longer warranties when their authorized roof installers do the project. Aside from their easy to install, durable and lightweight factors, Most fiberglass roofing panels are affordable than the alternative roofing panels, fiberglass roofing panels are about 65 to 70 percent cheaper than the others but gives the same great look and durability with an average of 25 to 30 years.

There are a plethora of choices when it comes to fiberglass roofing panels, each providing their pros and cons, but like any other building project, it is best to discuss this with your architect or contractor. Try to learn more and discuss this with people knowledgeable with all the factors that may influence the look and the lifespan of your roof. More and more new and innovative types, shapes and forms of fiberglass roofing panel are coming out so it’s best to keep yourself updated.

About the Author: Online entrepreneur Sara Jenkins, is dedicated to helping others and their needs to succeed in life by offering free payroll tips everyday. To learn more about her free roofing tips, and to sign up for her FREE Roofing articles and FREE bonus how-to books and resources, visit http://www.RoofingUp.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

Corrugated Roofing Materials Used for Roofing Any Structure

The roof is a very essential element of the house, building or any structure. They provide the shelter and the protection from nature’s elements and factors such as rain, snow, sleet, as well as sunlight. But basically, the roof is like a wall of the house, a panel if you will; only it is placed and located on top of the house or building. Roofs are basically characterized in two ways, the flat and the sliding. Some combine both. Roofs may be made from different materials, all throughout the history of mankind, different materials have been used as roofing materials and one of the more successful is the corrugated roofing.

Corrugated roofing started out as sheetmetal. They form some sort of waves on the roofing for design as well as for purpose. Nowadays corrugated roofing is made from different materials, such as Stainless Steel, Fiberglass, Aluminum, Coated or Painted Steel. Usually they are treated with special finishes to prevent corrosion. Corrugated roofing materials are easy to use and install. They are relatively affordable than other roofing materials and are a long lasting solutions. Corrugated roofing materials are usually used for the sliding type of roof.

Steel corrugated roofing materials can be quite long lasting. They can be painted with different colors and treated with different solutions to make them even more long-lasting. They are also pretty lightweight and easy to handle. Installation can be done with a minimum number of persons. What’s more they are very affordable. Corrugated roofing materials that uses fiberglass are very translucent which can provide natural lighting to the house or building. They are watertight like other corrugated roofing materials and are very lightweight and durable. Corrugated roofing materials are also more rigid than a flat sheet of a similar type and thickness, this results to a substantial reduction in cost and weight.

The disadvantages in using corrugated roofing materials are that they are very lightweight and can be hard to work with if the weather is extreme. Fiberglass corrugated roofing materials cannot withstand high heat, fiberglass also easily chips while metal and aluminum corrugated roofing materials dent easily and is hard to restore. The temperature plays a major facto with corrugated roofing materials and if they are not installed properly they may detach. Because corrugated roofing materials are usually very thin, they can be very noisy when it rains, snows or other extreme weather conditions. The corrugated roofing materials sheets can also be very heated during hot sunny days and the heat can radiate to the rest of the structure making it very uncomfortable. To eradicate this problem, a false ceiling must be placed, the gap in between should be well ventilated so that the hot air will be dispensed through that manner. Utilizing light colored corrugated roofing materials or painting it with light colored paints if possible will also decrease this problem.

When installing corrugated roofing materials, there is some basic building materials needed such as, Filler strips, these are wood shaped to fit the contours of the panels, special nails for corrugated roofing materials, plastic washers, you will also need a drill and drill bits, a saw might also be needed for some cutting. Corrugated roofing materials are sold in panels with different sizes, before purchasing, it is best to determine which size and how many panels will be needed so that cutting will not be necessitated thus avoiding waste and additional costs. With corrugated roofing materials you get high=quality roofing materials that is very affordable, easy to handle and install and can be designed to compliment any house and design.

About the Author: Online entrepreneur Sara Jenkins, is dedicated to helping others and their needs to succeed in life by offering free payroll tips everyday. To learn more about her free roofing tips, and to sign up for her FREE Roofing articles and FREE bonus how-to books and resources, visit http://www.RoofingUp.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

Is the Housing Market Softening?

I have been hearing from a number of sources that the real estate market in the New England area is beginning to soften.

A couple of real estate agents that I recently spoke to indicated that it is taking upwards of 60-90 days to now sell a home. A year ago, many houses on the market were on for less than a week and were involved in bidding wars between potential buyers.

I guess I am not surprised with increasing interest rates and sky high oil costs. The housing market has been over-inflated for a number of years now and has been ripe for a correction.

The question is, how far will they drop and will the drop occur throughout all of the United States or only in selected areas. Any thoughts on this subject would be appreciated.....

Shingling a Roof

Shingling or roofing a house is a major undertaking for a homeowner and extreme caution is required. This said, a Do-It-Yourselfer homeowner can shingle or roof their own home with a little knowledge and the right tools.

Required Tools

In order to roof a house properly and safely the following tools are needed: Ladders, Roof Jacks, Hammer, Carpenters Knife, Chalk Line, and preferably a compressor or nail gun.

Estimating Materials

Typically the roof is measured in squares, where a “square” represents 100 square feet. There are eighty shingles in one square. However, when you go to your local home improvement store shingles are usually sold in bundles. Usually three bundles equal one square, however this can vary slightly pending the shingle style.

Measure the area of your roof (length x width) and divide by 100 to get the number of squares required. Then multiply this number by three to get the number of bundles of shingles required for the job. Add an additional 10-15% for spare, leaning toward the 15% if your roof has hips and valleys.

Drip edge, ice and water shield, asphalt paper, flashing, roofing nails, and hip and ridge vents will also be required. The Drip edge comes in various lengths. Measure the outside perimeter of the roof to calculate the drip edge required. The ice and water shield, asphalt paper and flashing come in roles. Use your roof square area calculation for determining your asphalt paper requirements. Typically only one or two courses of ice and water shield is required along the bottom/eave of the roof and in the valleys. Calculate 2 times the length of the roof and valleys to estimate the amount of ice and water shield required.

Typically each shingle will require 4-6 roofing nails and flashing usually comes in 16” wide roles or 6x6 or 8x8 square inch steps. Step flashing is typically used around chimneys, dormers and side wall junctions. Hip and Ridge vent will vary with local building codes, however a rough estimate would be to measure the length of your roof’s hip and ridges and take 75% of this figure for calculating the amount of vent required.

You should now be able to fairly accurately calculate the cost of material for roofing your home.

Installing the Drip Edge

Nail the Drip edge around the entire outside perimeter of the roof.


Apply the Ice and Water Shield Membrane and the Asphalt Paper

Apply the ice and water shield material such that it is flush with the drip edge. If the climate in your area has harsh winters and/or significant annual rainfall, add a second course of ice and water shield for added protection. You should also add the ice and water shield membrane in the valleys.

Next apply the asphalt paper to the entire roof, starting from the bottom and working towards the ridge. Make sure each course of asphalt paper overlaps the lower row by several inches (effectively shingling with the asphalt paper).

Install Flashing

Install metal flashing in all of the valleys. Step flashing around chimneys and dormers will be added as the shingles are installed.

Installing the Shingles

Start the shingling at the bottom of the roof (or at the eaves). Lay a starter course such that the bottom edge of the shingle lines up flush with the drip edge. The starter strip is a “tabless” shingle that you make from the regular shingles using your carpenter’s knife.

Lay your next course of full shingles over the first course, staggering the starter joints from the first course to prevent water penetration.

Note: Sometimes you may want to start with a full or a partial shingle at one end. In either case, you want to try to avoid small shingle pieces at the far end of the roof. To prevent this, divide the length of the roof by the length of a full shingle and assess how much of a shingle length you want to start with. Ideally you do not want to have pieces smaller than 12”.

Use a Chalk Line

To ensure your shingle courses run straight use a chalk line. Measure the finished reveal on your shingles. Usually this is about 5 inches. Then make marks every 5 inches on the gable ends of the roof. Snap a chalk line between the gable ends at each pair of marks all the way up the roof. This will ensure that you shingles run true and straight as you progress up the roof with the courses.

Vertical lines should also be snapped every 3 to 6 feet to ensure your tabs maintain alignment.

Use of Roof Jacks

After 3 or 4 courses of shingles have been installed using ladders, roof jacks may be necessary to access the upper courses. Roof jacks are steel brackets that hold planks in position for you to stand on. The roof jacks should be securely nailed through the decking and into rafters to ensure that they will support your weight.

Shingling Valleys, Chimneys, Skylights and Dormers, and Step Flashing

Shingling the valleys and installing flashing requires extra care. The shingles, typically coming from two intersecting courses when entering a valley, need to overlap each other such that no water penetration occurs.

Skylights, chimneys and dormers must be step flashed (step flashing is interleaved with each course of shingles) to ensure water is kept from penetrating the roof.

Adding the Ridge Vent and Caps

To complete the roofing project, ridge vents need to be installed. These are nailed to the top of the ridge and then capped.

The ridge cap prevents water from entering the home via the ridge vent, while still allowing the house to breath. The ridge cap is constructed out of individual shingle tabs that have their unfinished corners cut off at 45 degree angles. Each modified shingle tab, is nailed such that it overlaps the previous piece as you work your way down the length of the ridge vent.

Choosing the Right Pipes and Plumbing System for a Log Cabin

Galvanized steel pipe is usually used for the line from your well to the pump. There is another type of pipe that can be used on the cold water services of your system. This pipe is made of polyethylene. It looks like a garden hose but is many times stronger. It has the advantage of being much more flexible and lighter than any of the rigid types. Never use this type of pipe on hot-water lines.

One cubic foot of storage space holds 7.48 gallons. The capacity of a round container is 1/2 the diameter multiplied by itself X 3.14 X the depth X 7.48. If a cistern is 10 feet in diameter and 6 feet deep, the capacity is (5 X 5 X 3.14 X 6 X 7.48) 3,523.08 gallons. Sea level: In talking about the lift of various pumps, I have said that certain pumps would be satisfactory if the water level was within 22 feet of the surface of the earth.

Such a pump would lose about I foot of suction lift for each 1,000 feet of elevation above sea level. If the altitude at your camp site is 2,000 feet, a shallow-well pump will have to be located within 20 feet vertical distance from the working normal water level, instead of 22 feet.

As you would expect, cottages include space for bathrooms. Some camps show a shower instead of a tub. The plumbing problems are similar for all the camps.

The locality in which you build may have some special requirements. Do check with local authorities. You may decide to have the local plumber install all your piping and fixtures. If so, you probably aren't interested in this section. But if you have decided to turn plumber, the description below should be helpful.

All the necessary parts can be bought from your local plumbing dealer, or from the major mail-order houses. It is also possible to rent the necessary tools. Where do we start? If I were doing the job, I'd start with the fitting that drains the seat and tub. On the floor of the bathroom mark where this fitting (I) is to go.

Most seats measure 14 inches or less from the back of the tank to the center of the closet bowl. Cut a hole large enough to take the small end of the closet collar. Install this fitting permanently in position with the closet bend sticking up to within 1/2 to % inches of the floor surface. It will be necessary to support the fitting with wood or metal hangers.

The stack base (part 2) is usually connected to part I. Sometimes it is necessary to add an extension piece if the stack base is to be located in a basement or if your camp is on a steep hillside. The stack base has two tappings: to one you can connect the drain from the shower or tub; to the other you can connect the kitchen sink drain, if necessary. If concrete slab is used, pipes below floor level must be installed before slab is poured.

Calking the joints is done by packing them with strands of oakum. A yarning iron is helpful in getting the oakum well pushed down. When the joint is about two-thirds full, hammer it all down tight. Fill the remainder of the opening with molten lead.

When the lead is cooler but not set, tap lightly around the hub. When it is cool, pound with more force. The stack base end should point toward your septic tank or sewer. I would install the lavatory basin next. Part 3 goes on top of part I. You'll find that this fitting will slip up and down in part I. This allows you to adjust the height of the lavatory basin.

This fitting has three tappings. One is for the lavatory basin, the second is for the kitchen sink, and the third for laundry tubs if there are any. Close any unused tappings with cast-iron plugs. Before calking fitting 3, mark on the wall where the waste pipe from each fixture will enter the wall.

Adjust the height of part 3 so that the height of the lower tapping is at the same height as the lowest waste pipe. Then lower part 3 about 1/4 inch per foot of horizontal run to allow for drainage. You are now ready to calk this fitting as you did parts I and 2.

The next step is to install the vent pipe. Measure the distance from the top of part 3 to about I foot above the roof. Cut and thread the pipe and screw it into the lavatory fitting 3. Some systems use an increaser at the top of this pipe. If you are going to use the cottage only during the summer, the increaser is an unnecessary part.

Use a standard vent-pipe flashing around the top of the pipe. You're over the worst of it now. The only thing left to do is to run the various pipes from the fixtures to parts I and 3. Drum trap (4) should be installed below the floor, trap cover down, between the tub or shower and the closet-tub fitting (I).

Where it is necessary to make turns in the drainage lines, use 90-degree fittings. To install the seat, place the closet bolts in the closet collar so that the threaded ends extend upward through the flange. Set the collar in the floor over the top of the closet bend and calk in place (5, 6, and 7). The asbestos gasket that comes with the seat should be put over the closet bottom outlet, the seat moved into place, and the nuts tightened.

There is the drainage system of your cottage--except for the disposal unit. If there is a central disposal system or sewer that you can use, it is probable that the connections to it will have to be made by a licensed plumber. On the other hand, if you are going to install a septic tank, you will want to read on into the next section to find out what to do.

About the Author: Jack Hudson is a writer for http://www.log-cabin-plans-n-kits.com/ and http://www.best-house-n-home-plans.com/. These two sites work collectively as a resouce for the planning and building of log cabins as well as choosing from different house plans. Visit one of these sites for informative articles as well as free TIPS for building a log home or choosing a house plan.

What are Water Softeners?

Soap scum. Stiff clothing. Clogged pipes. No matter what you try, it's hard to get your surfaces clean. Scale builds up. Dishes come out of the dishwasher with spots on them. All of these problems occur because of hard water, a frustrating but fixable situation.

The term, "hard water," refers to water with a high mineral content. The most common minerals that cause water hardness are calcium and magnesium. As water is absorbed into the ground, the minerals are pulled from the earth and eventually end up in a household's water supply. Hard water can clog household plumbing.

Water hardness, or how much of a mineral is present in water, is measured in grains per gallon (GPG), parts per million (PPM), or milligrams per liter (MG/L). Water up to 1 GPG is considered soft, water; from 1 to 3.5 GPG is considered moderate, and water 3.5 to 7 GPG is hard water. Kits used to test water hardness can be purchased at a pool supplier or from a water softener dealer.

Many water softeners plug right into the household water supply. Ionic exchange water softeners consist of negatively charged plastic beads, a brine tank, and a regenerating system with a timer or other monitoring device. Sodium or potassium chloride is added to the brine tank when regeneration is necessary. Home water softeners range in price from $400 to $1,200, and the salt ranges from $5 to $7 per bag. Price depends on type, size, and type of softening agent. Alternatively, magnetic water softeners consist of only 2 magnets attached to the outside or inside of water pipes.

Water softeners work by replacing ions of the minerals that cause hardness with "softer" ions. Water is filtered through charged plastic beads and the magnesium or calcium ions are replaced with sodium or potassium ions. In the case of magnetic water softeners, magnetic energy causes chemical changes in the minerals.

Using water softeners poses no health risks, except for those who are on sodium-restricted diets. Keep bottled water on hand for cooking and consumption, or use potassium chloride instead of sodium chloride to soften. Potassium chloride is more expensive than sodium chloride. There are also no health risks associated with choosing not to soften water.

About the Author: Water Softeners Info provides detailed information about magnetic and ionic exchange water softeners, home water softener systems and kits, product reviews and comparisons, water softener salt, and more. Water Softeners Info is the sister site of Dishwashers Web.

Forget Everything You've Ever Read About Water Heating... Consider Tankless Water Heaters

In recent times electric tankless hot water heaters are progressively making a name for themselves in the United States as optimum water heater cost savers.

In addition in many areas outside of the United States, electric tankless water heaters are considered to be far superior to the standard and more traditional hot water heaters with tanks that take up entire closets and indeed soak up lots of dollars each month.

The tank units are seen as antiquated and entirely inefficient in both water heating mechanism and costs. Yet people stick with because they are tried and true.

In many ways, this belief is true. Hot water heater tanks never quite stop working and are generally fairly reliable. But there is one over riding issue with the traditional water heaters which is that even if nothing in the house is using the heater, the heater is still wasting energy and therefore still costing money.

But despite what they have used in the past and despite what they have paid for water heating in the paste, people can actually change their heating and hot water rates if they install a tankless water heater.

Tankless water heaters are simply more efficient systems than tank units because they don't soak up the energy when the tank is not in use.

There are a large number of electric tankless water heaters available on the market. Having such a wide choice makes it much easier for people to find a unit that falls into their price range and fits into the available space they have in their home.

Even the cheapest electric tankless water heaters can still be very effective for residential use. There are also more powerful electric tankless water heaters that are designed for use in large homes.

People can find electric tankless water heaters that supply an entire home, or they can locate electric tankless water heaters that only serves only one point in the house.

Many retailers offer cheap delivery on their units especially if you purchase the unit from them and ask them to undertake the installation of the unit as well.

While most electric tankless hot water heaters are designed to allow the consumer to install them there are often more technical considerations such as voltage, amperage, or circuit breakers, and so it can often be a good idea to bring an expert in.

About the Author: John Williams works tech support for New York based Internet Publishing company, DigiLectual Inc. He's keenly interested in energy efficiency, and did a lot of research before installing tankless water heaters in his own home.

Source: www.isnare.com

How to Install a New Toilet in 5 Easy Steps

If your toilet is old and in need of repairs, it is cheaper to replace it by installing a new one. This is quite easy to do and can be completed in an afternoon. However, if you plan to install a toilet in a new location, you will have to extend supply pipes and drainpipes to the desired spot, a job you may want to leave to a plumbing contractor.

Most toilets are sold with the necessary gaskets, washers, and hardware for fitting the tank to the bowl. However you might need to buy a few parts. Here is a list of what you need to complete this task:

Parts: Toilet bowl, Toilet tank, Toilet seat, Two 1/4" bolts for bowl to flange, Wax ring, 20" water supply with fitting at valve or floor connection and Tools: Pair of channel pliers, bucket, screw driver.

Many of these can be ordered online at any DIY website such as DIY Tips UK: http://www.diy-tips-uk.com/plumbing/

1. Shut off the water to the toilet, use a bucket and a cloth or a sponge to remove the water left in tank and bowl after you flush the toilet.

2. Using a pair of channel pliers, or a small pipe wrench (8"), remove the nut where the water line fastens to the ballcock valve under the left side of the bottom of the tank. Next use a small crescent wrench, remove the two 1/4" nuts holding the bowl to the floor flange. Remove old toilet. Remove the water line from the valve or fitting at floor or wall.

3. Now you are ready to install your new toilet. Put the two 1/4" bolts in the side holes of the flange with the bolt head in the flange. Put some of the old wax at this spot to hold the bolts straight up and across from each other. Put new wax ring on flange, flat side up if tapered.

4. Set new bowl only straight down so it centers on wax ring and both bolts come through holds on each side of bowl. Sit on bowl facing wall until your weight puts bowl flush with the floor. Put metal washers and nuts on bolts and tighten until snug. Do not over-tighten as you can crack the bowl. Tighten these again after toilet is completely installed and filled with water.

5. Next put 2" rubber gasket on tank where it sets on the bowl, put rubber washers on bolts provided under the bolt head so they will be on the inside of the tank. Pick up tank and set on bowl over holes in bowl where bolts go through. Sit on bowl facing wall. Put bolts on from the inside of the tank into holes in bowl, put on metal washers and nuts and tighten. Hold tank level and tighten so it brings tank down level. Use a large screw driver inside tank and a crescent wrench or end wrench to back up nut under bowl. Tighten with screw driver. Hook water supply to tank, turn on water, check for leaks, and snug up the bolts holding bowl to floor. If there is a space between the back of the tank and the wall, put a spacer of sort there to brace tank. A piece of wood or hard rubber works fine.

Maintenance:

At least twice a year clean out the inside of your toilet tank. When cleaning the toilet tank, turn off the water, flush toilet once, add small amount of cleaning detergent inside tank to water remaining and use a cloth or brush to clean. Also clean out holes under toilet seat and rim of the bowl as well as the 3/4" hole in the bottom of toilet bowl. Replace rubber tank ball at this time if needed. Maintaining your new toilet will keep the plumber away and reduce your plumbing bill.

Copyright © 2005. Bridget Mwape writes for DIY Tips UK: http://www.diy-tips-uk.com/ which features how-to articles and products to help you with your DIY and home improvement projects. This article may be reprinted as long as all the above links are active and clickable and this author box (byline) is not edited.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

Low Flow Toilets... A Love, Hate Relationship

This will come as no surprise, but were you aware that most owners of new homes are unhappy with their low-flow toilets?

Since 1992, when the U.S. government mandated the low-flows, we Americans have been subjected to considerably less flushing power...about half the water per flush than the old fashioned type. The newer units use about one and a half gallons of water versus the older ones that use about three and a half. It doesn't take a brain surgeon to figure out what will happen: half (or less)efficiency out of our new plumbing fixture.

To be sure, technology is working to solve the problem but the issue remains: we are simply not getting the service out of our "thrones" like we once did.

Among the issues are that multiple flushes are needed to dispense of the same amount of waste, clogging problems, and additional maintenance. Also, they have been reported to overflow more easily.

Some of the above issues completely work against the issue of saving water. After all, if you have to flush 2 or more times, how does that save water. Beyond that, though, clogging and overflow problems result in potentially catastrophic expenses when flooring needs to be replaced due to an overflowing toilet.

A recent survey of new home builders and remodelers has shown that they, like homeowners, are frustrated with this new plumbing restriction. They have reported huge increases on service calls from unhappy customers.

Water saving techniques and technologies are certainly a good thing. And, one thing is for sure: they are here to stay. In fact, a home with low-flow toilets and low-flow shower heads can save thousands of gallons per year. And, who would not appreciate the savings in water bills? Let's just hope that the plumbing technology continues to get better.

After all, to be king of your household, you need an efficient and affordable throne!

About the Author: Sandy Knoll, webmaster for http://www.fainplumbing.com is a plumbing expert who operates a web site devoted to providing resources on the subject of plumbing. Visit http://www.fainplumbing.com for valuable resources.

Source: www.isnare.com

Window Styles

Have you ever wondered what those funny windows you see on buildings were called?

According to wikopedia, The definition of a window is "... an opening in an otherwise solid, opaque surface through which light and air can pass. " By definition, this includes the early windows which didn't have any protection from the wind or rain. Early windows used shutters to protect the inside of the house from the elements. Modern windows may have be single, dual, or triple paned.

There are may different window styles, those more common today which are usually dictated by the weather conditions common to the area. Coastal climates, with stronger winds, tend to have smaller outward-opening windows while inland areas tend to have larger windows, with commonly open inwards.

* Replacement: is a framed window designed to slip inside the original window frame from the inside after the old sashes are removed

* New construction: a window with a nailing fin designed to be inserted into a rough opening from the outside before applying siding and inside trim. Common styles are:

* Double-hung sash window: a Vertical style window with two parts (sashes) which overlap slightly and slide up and down inside the frame.

* Single-hung sash window: one sash is movable and the other fixed.

* Horizontal Sliding sash window: has two or more sashes that overlap slightly but slide horizontally within the frame. If there are 3 part, the center typically is a fixed panel.

* Casement window: An outward-opening window with either side-hung, top-hung, or combination of sash types. Often they have fixed panels on one or more sides of the sash. These are opened using a crank, by friction stays, or espagnolette locking.

* Tilt: a window which can open inwards at the top or can open hinged at the side.

* Jalousie window: A window comprising many slats of glass that open and close like a Venetian blind usually using a crank.

* Skylight: A flat, sloped, or bubble window built into a roof structure for daylighting.

* Bay: A multipanel window, with at three sections set at different angles to create an expanded area for shelving/sitting while allowing more light into the room that a flat window. The window creates a "seat board", a small seating area or shelf often used for plants or items that would take up floor space. A bay window may be rectangular, polygonal or arc shaped. If arc-shaped it is a bow window.

* Bow: a type of Bay window, but arc shaped with four or more glass sections to simulate a rounded appearance. * Fixed: A window that cannot be opened. A non-opening window is sometimes called a "light" because its function is limited to allowing light to enter without any outside air.

* Picture: A very large fixed window in a wall, which provides an unimpeded view "as if framing a picture". Classic styles:

* Clerestory: A fixed, vertical window set in a roof structure or high in a wall, used for daylighting. You'll see these in the old churches around the world, like Notre Dame. Clerestory lights are any rows of windows above eye level for providing light.

* Oriel: Projects from the wall, and were originally a form of a porch. Often seen on upper stories of older buildings. Often supported by brackets, or by corbels (a type of architectural bracket), they do not reach the ground. These are the rounded columnar windows you see on older buildings.

* Palladian: A large arched window which is divided into three parts. The center section is larger than the two side sections. Renaissance and classical architecture often have Palladian windows.

About the Author: Eileen church, webmaster for http://www.windowsf.com is a big fan of windows and the use of windows. She operates a web site that is devoted to windows and window resources. Her email is eileen@windowsf.com

Source: www.isnare.com

Types Of Carpets

When you go out to look for carpeting it's best that you do some homework first. Before you go to the store you should know a bit about the available carpet types you're going to be presented with. Have an idea of what each of the carpet fibers have to offer as far as durability and ability to repel stains.

Most wall to wall carpet is produced of man made fibers such as olefin, nylon, polyester, acrylic or blends of these fibers. PET is made of recycled plastic. PET is one of the strongest man made fibers and is stain resistant.

Acrylic carpeting is very similar to wool (wool is considered the best carpeting available) and is sometimes called man-made wool. It resists moisture, fading, mildew, crushing and staining but is not recommended for high traffic areas in the home. Nylon carpeting is popular due to it's durability. It resists mildew, staining and soiling. Nylon carpet is recommended for all traffic areas. It is one of the most expensive of the synthetic fibers but cheaper than wool. Olefin is a very low cost easy care material that is often used in indoor/outdoor carpeting. Olefin is colorfast and strong and easy to clean. One drawback to olefin is that it can be easily crushed depending on the pile. Polyester is luxurious and durable however is not good for high traffic areas in the home.

Another consideration would be the density of the carpet. You want a high number of fibers per square inch. A closely packed pile is an indication of a well made carpet. Check the carpet backing closely to make sure you don't see any bare areas.

The two most popular types of carpeting today are loop pile and cut pile. Loop pile has individual strands of yarn pulled through the carpet backing twice, creating a small loop. Cut pile has the loop cut at the top, leaving tufts of yarn that stand straight up. A cut pile carpet is generally more durable than a looped pile carpet. Cut pile carpets come in a variety of styles such as shag, textured, saxony and velvet or plush. Loop pile carpets would be a berber, cable or sisal. Loop pile carpets are a good choice for high traffic areas.

Ask to see the manufacturers performance rating guidelines on any carpet you are interested in.

Doing your homework before you purchase goes a long way to insuring you make the best decision. The old saying "an informed consumer is a happy consumer" hold true.

About the Author: This article courtesy of http://www.carpet-answers.com

Refinish Your Hardwood Floor Like a Pro

This article is written by a pro of refinishing hardwood floors since I have done too many to count. Maybe 300 would be a good guess. My father was in the business full time (as well as aluminum windows and doors (which I'll write another article about that soon) and while I attended college, and for a short time after, I worked with him as well as on my own refinishing hardwood floors.

In fact, I just did my mother-in-law's last summer and my back still hurts!

Before you even think of starting this DIY project, you need to be fairly good shape. There is a lot of bending, kneeling and scraping...if you do it right.

Ok, you still are here reading so I guess you are serious :o)

Here are the easy? steps to a beautiful, shiny hardwood floor:

• Determine what kind of finish you would like first. There are a couple choices, flat, medium gloss and high gloss. It's strictly taste as they both wear the same. I prefer a polyurethane paint but some like varnishes. I found urethane to be a durable finish and won't yellow over time. Look for 'non-yellowing' on the can. They come in either oil or water based, and I prefer water base for the ease of clean up.
• Go to your local hardware store that carries floor sanders, edger sander, pain scrapers, sandpaper (medium) and the floor paint.
• Prepare your floor by filling in any blemishes, depressions, cracks and nail holes.
  Sweep and then vacuum floor. (at this point I would hang a plastic sheet over any door openings if the door has been removed (new construction etc).
• Sand main floor being careful to keep sander going in same direction. Start with a coarse sandpaper and switch to finer for second sanding. The first sanding is to get to bare wood and the second for a finished look.
• Sand the edges. The trick here is to use a fairly light touch and rotate the sander in semi-circle reducing sand marks.
• Now the fun part. Take your scraper in scrape the corners and under heaters. Don't worry about under heaters too much as it won't be that noticeable.
• Whew! The hard part is done. Now the fun part. Sweep and vacuum floor and if you see a swirl or sanding marks scrape the out.
• Put the sealer down. Wait at least 2 hours, hand sand the whole floor, vacuum and apply the urethane. If you don't have air conditioning, put a fan on the floor to dry it quicker.
• I usually waited at least 4-5 hours for it dry, most of the time overnight. I recommend at least 2 coats of urethane for a durable, hard finish.

You're done! Wow not so bad was it?

About the Author: Dan Farrell is the owner of http://www.closet-organizer-plan.com where you can get a free closet organizer plan and other home improvement ideas and articles.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

How to Makeover a Drab Concrete Patio

Without a doubt, patios have now become more of an integral part of the home rather than just a concrete pad sitting forlornly in the back yard. But as patios are increasingly used for outdoor dining, BBQ’s or just a place to relax and enjoy the outdoors, that old, drab and maybe cracked concrete pad is most likely in desperate need of a bold makeover to meet the changing requirements. And a makeover of your outside entertaining area can be one of the most cost effective home improvement tasks you can undertake to lift the value of your home.

A number of options are possible for remodeling or transforming existing concrete pads, depending on the condition of the concrete, your budget, the amount of disruption you can tolerate and material preference. For example, if the concrete is in excellent condition, then the concrete surface can simply be stained, given a textured coating or a stenciled tile pattern applied. These options involve only minimal disruption and are applied by specialized contractors.

If the concrete surface is basically sound, perhaps with only hairline cracks, then resurfacing with porcelain or stone tiles is an option that could be considered. Porcelain tiles are available in a multitude of colours, styles and sizes. Textured finishes are generally applied to exterior tiles to reduce the danger of slipping under wet conditions. Check to ensue the tiles are suitable for your local conditions as tiles with high water absorption characteristics may crack in freezing conditions. Be aware that any existing cracks in the concrete which extend through the entire pad are likely to open further and eventually can lead to cracking in any tiles laid above.

Natural stone products such as sandstone, limestone, slate or granite may also be considered but may need to be sealed against moisture or to prevent staining. Another option where additional height is not a problem is to use new or reclaimed bricks or clay pavers.

Perhaps one of the simplest, most cost effective and attractive options however, is to install modular wood deck tiles. Such tiles can tolerate a certain degree of cracking of the concrete and will not cause problems if cracks in the concrete pad are likely to expand. These DIY decking tiles are typically available as 12’ x 12’’ squares and are easily installed by just clicking the modules into place (see for example http://www.swiftdeck.com). The tiles have special tabs built onto the sides of the plastic base which keeps them firmly in place and avoids the need for any particular surface preparation, adhesives or other fixings. The plastic base is designed to allow water to pass freely under the tiles and keep the wood clear of the sub-surface. A typical patio area can be fully laid in just an hour or so and is ready to use immediately.

Most manufacturers produce wood deck tiles in several different designs, so it is possible to create borders, centerpieces, feature areas etc. to suit your individual preference. Check to ensure the wood species used is a high natural durability species such as Jarrah, Ipe, Bangkirai etc. Most tiles are pre-oiled with a penetrating deck oil but regular re-oiling every 12 month or so is recommended if it is desired to retail the original wood colour as long as possible.

In addition to interlocking wood deck tiles, a range of ceramic interlocking tiles is now available which gives further opportunities to individualize your patio. These tiles are designed to interlock with the wood tiles, so for example you could have a central patio area paved in ceramic tiles where tables and chairs are situated, surrounded by wood tiles. With the addition of some large pots, attractive plants and maybe a favorite piece of sculpture, that dull patio can soon become a place you can be truly proud of again.

About the Author: Malcolm Kay is the CEO of Intex Pacific Pty. Ltd. an international supplier of landscape materials including patio deck tiles. For more information see http://www.swiftdeck.com

My Water Smells Like Rotten Eggs!

What causes my hot water to smell like rotten eggs?My cold water doesn't smell, what is the solution for this problem? The most common cause of "smelly water" is a non-toxic sulfate reducing bacteria, scientifically termed Divibrio Sulfurcans. This bacteria often enters the water system through construction or a break in ground piping. The bacteria creates the energy it needs to survive by converting sulfate (SO4) to hydrogen sulfide (H2S) gas you smell in the water. Hydrogen sulfide gas is distinctive because of its rotten egg-like stench. Its presence can severely affect the taste as well as the odor of the water.

The simplest treatment available is the shock-chlorination of the system. This is a surface treatment, and often requires repeated trials in heavily infected systems. The chlorination of a system requires that you follow each step explicitly to avoid an un-treated portion of the piping system from reinfecting another part.

Longer lasting solutions include chlorination or aeration of the water supply.Want to learn more about plumbing? Visit our plumbing information section that has free repair guides and answers to your most common plumbing questions that can help even the most experienced plumber!

About the Author: 1-800-AnyTyme specializes in offering 24 hour emergency plumbing, electrical, heating & air conditioning services throughout Southern California and Denver, Colorado.

Should You Contract Your Remodeling Job Yourself?

My immediate answer would be, probably not. The long answer would be something like this:
It depends on a number of factors. Most people who contract the job themselves are trying to save the amount of money the contractor would have grossed on the project. I guarantee you, they will not have a joyous time doing it.

No different than trying to sell your house without a real estate agent. I can't speak for the Realtors but I can speak for the contractors. Contractors gross do not approach the Realtors gross. It's a good idea if you can pull it off, but most of the time you will find you can't.
You will find yourself with a mess on your hands. Not only a mess of problems, (construction defects, contractor disputes as to who is at fault etc) but you will not save nearly as much money as you thought you would.

A lot depends on the complexity of the project. If you are looking to pour a cement patio or have aluminum siding put on your house then you need only to call a cement contractor or a siding contractor. There is little preparation or coordination necessary to accomplish what you want to do. If you read my kitchens page on my web site (http://www.remodeling4dumbbells.com) you know I am surprised more homeowners aren't doing a simple cabinet & countertop redo by themselves.

I have built hundreds of shells for customers (Shells are usually projects built to a point where the exterior roof & walls are complete & the interior is left for the homeowner to finish himself.) The homeowner gets a good start on the most difficult part of the construction & is competent enough to finish the interior. In many cases the homeowner contracts the electric & heating to others. Some times, if he is very competent, he does the electric & heating himself.

Does he save money? Yes, he does. He saves all of the interior carpenter labor. The electric & heating contractor will charge him more (probably a lot more) than a general contractor who is giving them a few hundred thousand dollars a year worth of business. The homeowner still has to deal with inspections, certificates of occupancy, underwriter certificate, cleanup, etc. In addition the project will take forever to complete.

Homeowners who want to do the finish themselves have good intentions but some are not as capable as others. Let me tell you of experiences I have had when doing estimates. Over the years, at least a hundred times, the homeowner at some point in the conversation would say something like this. "I could build this myself but I don't have the time. Then he insisted he show me the finished basement, attic, deck or whatever it was he did himself. He would then say: "Would you believe I did this all myself?" After looking at his work I would answer truthfully. "Yes" There are more reasons why I believe it is in your best interest to hire a general contractor. If your project demands a building permit then you will need a set of building plans to submit to the building department. If you have read any of my books you know you do not need an architect at a cost starting at $700- $800. You will be spending money that is not necessary.

If you are going to do it right then you will have to call in three contractors on each trade involved in your project to get decent pricing on each: Carpenters, plumbers, electricians, spacklers, heating & air, cement etc. This alone is a daunting task. When you are all done you will still not get a price as good as a general contractor. Many of these contractors are so busy that they don't care whether you hire them or not. They will throw you a price (any price) & if you bite, fine. If not, they don't need you.

In many cases you will be asked to provide the material & its cost up front. You can expect appointment promises that will not be kept. You will have to coordinate the timing of the trades in the correct order. You will order yellow & have blue delivered, you will order 100 & receive 90, you will have damaged goods delivered that have to be returned & credited. You will have people falling off your roof & injuring themselves.

I could go on, but suffice it to say, it is a much tougher job than it appears to be. Will the savings be worth it? Is $500, $1000, $1500 or more worth the added time & work on your part? That is a question you will have to decide for yourself. There is a reason contractors exist. If it was easy & significant amounts of money were to be saved then most people would contract themselves.

Most people don't.

About the Author: This article was written by Bill Harbrecht of http://www.remodeling4dumbbells.com. Remodeling4dumbbells.com is a great resource for information about all facets of home remodeling in general & room additions in particular..

How to Fix a Leaking Showerhead Faucet

A leaky showerhead can be both annoying and costly. After a few hours, the constant dripping noise is as brutal on the eardrums as nails on a chalkboard. And, even though a singular drip is only a few milliliters of water, it doesn't take long before that leaky showerhead wastes hundreds of gallons - adding an extra zero to the end of the water bill.

Most homeowners don't realize that a leaking showerhead is pretty simple to fix. There's no need to buy a new one or, worse yet, hire a plumber. You can finish the job yourself in just a few short minutes with nothing more than a screwdriver, an adjustable wrench, and a washer that you can buy for a nickel at any hardware store.

Now that you've decided to take on the job yourself, you need to understand the two most common things that go wrong with showerheads. Either they start leaking at the point where the pipe screws into the actual showerhead, or the holes in the showerhead become clogged, causing water backups and creating a leak.

First, you'll need to unscrew the showerhead from the outlet pipe. To protect the showerhead from damage, wrap a towel around the point where the head screws onto the outlet piping. Take the pliers and remove the head from the outlet. You'll see the washer. Pull it off and replace it with the new one. If you think you need a tighter seal, use plumbers tape across the threads before screwing the showerhead back in.

Also, if you have a rotating or swiveling showerhead, you might as well take an extra step while you have it taken apart. To increase the swivel range and flexibility, take some lubricant, preferably silicone, and lube up the interior swivel ball before you screw the head back in.
If the holes in the showerhead are clogged, take off the faceplate by removing the screws attaching it to the head. If you can't remove the faceplate, that's okay, just keep the entire unit unscrewed. The reason showerheads get clogged is the lime deposits that are formed and get stuck in the holes over time. To get rid of the lime deposits, take either the faceplate or the whole showerhead, and soak it in a bowl of white vinegar for at least eight hours. This will dissolve the deposits, and make them easy to remove by sticking a toothpick or small nail through the holes in the showerhead. After that, scrub the faceplate with a stiff plastic brush and screw the unit back into the wall.

About the Author: Nancy Dean is a freelance author who frequently contributes to several websites, including http://www.allfaucets.info/. Coming from a family full of carpenters, she enjoys both doing and writing about home improvement projects.

Caulking Improves Comfort, Saves Energy

Poor caulking is the most common exterior complaint from owners of new homes. Water penetration can turn your dream home into a nightmare. For the builder it can be a recurring one, because water not only damages the house cosmetically, but can also cause serious structural damage.

The Proper Caulking Bead

I like to cut the nozzle squarely with a cross section producing the appropriate bead size. I hold the gun at about 45º to the work surface and push the caulking ahead, forcing it into the joint. The joint bead should have a flat to slightly concave surface, and when I use quality caulking I have better, longer-lasting results. Finger tool the bead with a moistened finger only if you absolutely have to, but never wet your finger in the mouth or on the tongue, as you may ingest hazardous materials. Read product labels carefully - some caulking are hazardous, even through skin contact.

Many like to cut the nozzle at about 45º and pull the caulking gun. Either way is fine, as long as you ensure the caulking is pressing into the joint to be filled. Avoid pulling the caulk into a spaghetti-like string... because then you'll be tempted to stick your fingers into it, and make a mess!

Cleanliness is job #1. Clean the surfaces to be caulked with dilute acetone or a solvent. Even the oils on your fingers can cause caulking, especially silicone caulking, to not adhere properly.

More About Caulking

Air infiltration through the outside walls of the home causes a great deal of heat loss. This can be corrected by the addition of caulking. The caulking should be applied wherever two different materials or parts of the house meet.

There are certain tools that you will need to caulk your home. You will need a ladder, a caulking gun, caulking cartridges or compound, backer rod or some other materials for stuffing large openings, and a putty knife or large flat-head screwdriver. There are several types of caulking some of which will last longer than others. The three recommended types are 100% silicone caulking, silicone with latex caulking, and acrylic with silicone caulking.

Caulking products of the aforementioned types have much greater resilience and durability, and although they are more expensive to purchase, their life expectancy is far greater and worth the investment. Caulking is very time consuming. Therefore if you use the most durable products, it will be years before you have to caulk again.

Before applying the caulking compound, clean the area of paint build-up, dirt or deteriorated caulk with solvent and a putty knife or large screwdriver. Look around the edges of a window or door. There should be filler in all of these cracks. If it is old, brittle, or broken, or if it's missing altogether, you should reseal it with a new application of caulking.

Drawing a good bead of caulk will take a little practice. Your first attempts may be a bit messy. Make sure the bead overlaps both sides for a tight seal. A wide bead may be necessary to make sure that the caulking adheres to both sides.

Caulking compound also comes in rope form. Unwind it and force it into cracks with your fingers. You can fill extra-wide cracks this way. Caulk around pipes and other holes that show from the outside. Fill extra wide cracks like those at the sills (where the house meets the foundation) with backer rod. In places where you can't quite fill the gaps, finish the job with caulking.

About the Author: Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. www.electrospec.ca is one of the web's largest, most authoritative home inspection information sites.

Ice Damming

Ice dams are the accumulation of ice at the eaves and valleys of roofs, and in some winters create major problems. Insufficient attic insulation or attic ventilation can cause roof snow to melt and slide down to the eaves, where the roof surface is cooler and the melting snow freezes to the roof. Subsequent melting causes water to pool behind this dam and sometimes the water seeps between the shingle layers, wetting the roof deck and possibly the walls and ceilings below.

Interior damage caused by ice dam. What To Do?

1. Carefully seal all ceiling penetrations such as light fixtures to keep warm, moist air out of the attic.

2. Ensure adequate attic ventilation of approximately 1 sq.ft. per 300 sq.ft. of ceiling area (no less than 50% at the gables or soffits, and no more than 50% through the roof)

3. Ensure that soffit vents are not blocked by insulation. If blown-in insulation tends to drift into the eaves, use 1/4inch plywood or paneling to create barriers between the rafters. Pre-fabricated barriers are also available. A minimum insulating value of R20 (approx. 8 inches) is recommended.

4. In new homes, roofing felt is applied from the edge of the roof to a point not less than 12" inside the inner face of the exterior wall. In some localities this eaves protection must go 10 or 12 feet up the roof (especially on low-sloped roofs) and the full length of valleys.

5. Try roof heater cables as an interim measure, until it's time for new roofing materials. Don't forget to point out the problem areas to your roofer, so he can provide adequate protection materials.

A word to the wise: Roofing is an apparently "easy enough" job for anyone, but there are many fine points that may escape the do-it-yourselfer. A professional roofer can be your best friend!


About the Author: Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. www.electrospec.ca is one of the web's largest, most authoritative home inspection information sites.

Choosing the Right House Plan

Everybody would like to live in a mansion or a sprawling ranch but there are many factors to consider when choosing a house plan. There are also a few pitfalls that can be avoided by doing your homework and making the right choices.

Before you commit to buying a stock or custom house plan, you should know how much of a house you can afford to build. A good place to get this information would be the bank that you might use to get your loan from.

Once you know what your budget is, you can determine how much house you can afford and pick a house plan that fits that budget. One way to accomplish this is to call several homebuilding contractors in your area. Ask them what the building costs per square foot are. Not all contractors are willing to volunteer this information, but you will find enough of them that are willing to help at the prospect of gaining a customer.

With this information you will be able to determine the square footage of a house plan you can afford. If your budget is $200,000 and the cost per square foot is $100, then a 2,000 square foot home is in your budget($200,000/$100= 2,000).

Another consideration is the size of the lot you intend on building your home. You don't want to invest in a blueprint for a house that won't fit on your lot. Check with your municipality or county on the distances you must have between the building and the lot lines. Most have rules on how much backyard you must have and how much your house must be set back from the street or building line.

Some towns and subdivisions also have what are called covenants. These are rules that dictate what you can and cannot build. Some of these covenants might include the minimum square footage house you can build, brick or frame construction, minimum roof pitch, and types of building materials you are allowed to use.

These are some of the important things you must consider. Building a new home the biggest investment you'll ever make. Doing a little homework will keep you from getting an unwanted surprise and wasting time and money on a plan you can't use.

(c) 2005 Mike Merisko

About the Author: Mike Merisko has been a carpenter for 26 years. Most of those years were spent in the homebuilding and remodeling industries. He was also in business as a carpentry and general contractor. While that is his forte, he also has experience in bridge building, commercial construction, and exhibit building which is how he earns his living these days. You can browse through articles by him and others at his website http://www.sawkerfs.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

Electric Radiant Heat - Low Cost House Warming

We as consumers dream up all kinds of ways to upgrade our homes. From stain-proof carpet, to solar panels for decreased energy bills; we are always looking for something that improves our standard of living, and hopefully, reduces our standard of spending.

Radiant Heat is one of these upgrades. It is a luxury you won't think about, but you'll miss if it's not there. When most people think of radiant heat, "Warm Floors" typically come to mind. Radiant heat, however, does a whole lot more that warm floors.

Radiant Heat is capable of heating an entire house, and is far more comfortable and efficient than forced air or convection heating.

In space-heating, occupants feel more comfortable even when the space air temperature is maintained lower than typical forced air heating. Radiant heat results in less heat-loss from a room. Forced air registers and baseboard heat strips are always located on outside walls between windows. These systems heat air that comes in contact with the external windows and walls to temperatures much higher than the desired room temperature. This results in more heat-loss from the space. Heatizon System’s products provide a uniform heat flux from the floor into the space, resulting in less heat-loss from the room.

Mass Warming results in less temperature variations in the space being heated. The flooring material is heated by the element which then radiates the heat into the space. The floor surface can be maintained at a very uniform temperature which prevents the hot and cold temperature swings that occur as other systems cycle on and off. Warming the mass of the floor results in what is called thermal capacitance. This allows the space to remain warm even when extreme temperatures occur. Essentially, heat energy is stored in the mass of the floor and other objects in the space. This applies to any type of floor--wood, concrete, tile, etc.

Efficiency levels of Heatizon Systems are excellent. When compared with a heat pump, forced-air furnace or baseboard heating system, Heatizon Systems low-voltage products are more efficient watt for watt. An article in the July, 1996 ASHRAE Journal, "Radiant Heating for Thermal Comfort" reported on experimental results comparing a heat pump, baseboard heat and radiant heat. The radiant heating system consumed 33% less energy than the heat pump system and 52% less energy than the baseboard system.

Reliability of Heatizon Systems are superior. The entire system is solid-state, has no moving parts to wear out, and has nothing that requires routine maintenance. There are no water lines to break or crack. Our products have been satisfying the needs of hundreds of customers since 1979. Both z-mesh and Tuff Cable are easy to repair in the event they get cut or damaged. The controls allow for power failures or spikes, yet brings the system back on-line as quickly as possible.

Comfort of radiant heat is superior because the radiant heat flux is uniform throughout the heated space. There are no "point-source" hot spots like there are in baseboard and forced air systems. Thermal comfort is sustained as the system cycles on and off, because the heated mass temperature remains almost constant.

Convenience of installation is superior to any other system. There is no ducting to deal with, no lost floor or wall space. Other than a thermostat, Heatizon Systems products are out of sight. Retrofitting is easy. Adding the system to an existing space is much easier than installing a hydronic or high voltage system.

Safety is a major advantage of the Heatizon System. Heatizon Systems products are ETL listed to UL standards 1673,1693, and 1561.

Quiet and clean. The Heatizon System produces no more noise than a light fixture. There is no fan starting and stopping, no filter to change or clean, no valves to wear out, and no pipes to rattle.

Life-Cycle Costs are less, especially when heating exterior concrete surfaces. The cost to replace a driveway, sidewalk or patio is many times the cost of the Heatizon Systems products.
visit "http://www.heatizon.com>http://www.heatizon.com for more information about Radiant Heat.

About the Author: Daniel Davidson is the Manager of Electronic Marketing at Heatizon Systems, a Utah based company which specializes in Radiant Heating and Snow Melting applications.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

Home Addition Bid Sheets

HomeAdditionPlus.com is now offering Home Addition Bid Sheets. Bid Sheets are a must for a Homeowner looking to hire a contractor for a Home Addition or Remodeling Project.

When you are looking to hire a professional contractor to perform work on your house do you know what questions to ask him? Bid Sheets from HomeAdditionPlus help you ask the right questions to potential contractors, thus ensuring you get the project completed properly and on time and budget.

HomeAdditionPlus Bid Sheets are in essence a questionnaire (Request for Proposal) form that you provide to potential contractors.

They complete this questionnaire so that you have sufficient information about them to determine if they are capable of completing the project on time, on budget and to your satisfaction.

The Questionnaire includes such topics as:

• Start and Complete dates
• Insurance Coverage
• Manufactures of key products
• Cost Breakouts
• References

Visit HomeAdditionPlus.com today to learn more!

Top Ten House Alarm and Home Security Devices

A man's home is his castle, as the saying goes. But homes today don't normally feature ramparts, drawbridges, moats and six-foot thick stone walls to keep out unwanted visitors. Today, a house alarm, and preferably a managed home security system, is needed to ensure your home's security. Not only does installing a home security system improve the safety of your family and possessions, but it can also decrease your home insurance costs. The Top Ten House Alarm and Home Security Devices list highlights ten devices and features of home security systems that can make your house a safer place.

The Top Ten

10. Talking Devices help you to understand the status of your home and monitoring as well as program the system. Some security systems feature talking master control panels, key pads or remotes. The talking feature may not result in great conversation, but it will help you understand your system a little better.

9. Some home alarm systems include extras like Key Fobs and Remotes to control the system at a distance. Somewhat similar to a car's key fob, home security key fobs include buttons to activate and deactivate the house alarm system. Some even include a "panic" button that activates the house alarm and alerts the proper authorities in the event of an emergency. Remote controls are similar and often larger. The features of remotes vary greatly and can include a full key pad, a talking feature and a panic button as well.

8. Yard Signs and House or Window Decals advertise your home's protection. The Greenwich Study of Residential Security found that homes without alarms were 2.7 to 3.5 times more likely to be burglarized, and that the most effective deterrent was the alarm monitoring company's yard sign (SIA Research Update, Security Industry Association, October 2001). Some choose to post the signs to deter possible break-ins without actually installing a home alarm system. While this effort will lower the odds of an attempted burglary, a yard sign alone cannot fully protect your home.

7. A Back-Up Power Supply is important in maintaining home security even during a power outage, when the risk of break-ins and looting is increased. Your home alarm should be effective even when your power is not. The easiest to maintain back-up power supplies use standard size batteries. Look for a model that uses rechargeable batteries to lower your maintenance costs.
6. Smoke Detectors add another layer of protection to your home, especially when they are integrated into the home alarm system. Not only do smoke detectors indicate a fire and give you time to escape safely, but when included in a home security package, they automatically notify the managing company and the fire department. Some systems even integrate the power supply to the smoke detectors. That means you don't have to change the batteries ever!

5. Wireless Systems protect your home without adding extra cords to trip over or extensive installation of in-wall cords. In wireless house alarm systems, each sensor or keypad communicates with the master control panel via radio frequencies or existing wiring in your home. A burglar will never be able to disarm the system by snipping the wires. This ensures the system is fully integrated and monitoring all parts of your home without using up your outlets or creating an obstacle course of wires for you.

4. Extra Key Pads are also important. Exterior mounted key pads can provide secure keyless entry to your family. Some systems also offer remote control key pads which are lightweight and portable. A home alarm system that features a security code with a key pad increases the security of your home. A monitored system can also lock down entry after several repeated, failed attempts at entry which indicate a possible break-in attempt.

3. Key pads may not always be enough to keep burglars out. Sensors on Windows and Doors reduce the risk of a burglar entering undetected and are a key part of a home alarm system. Motion Detectors within the home also increase the level of security. The most sophisticated motion detectors include a feature to ignore pets' movement to avoid constantly setting the alarm off inadvertently.

2. Installation, Monitoring, and Repair Services increase not only the level of safety but the convenience of keeping your home safe. A house alarm alone cannot notify the police or fire department in the event of an emergency. The most complete systems include buttons to notify police departments, fire departments and medical help instantly. Another advantage offered by the best monitoring companies is live customer support and full service installation and repair of the system by employees who have been background checked, licensed and drug tested to ensure your safety. Finally, some companies even offer relocation services to keep you secure even when you move.

1. The classic Master Control Panel is vital to any home alarm system. The central hub of the system, the control panel is usually wall-mounted in an easily accessible place. The panel receives information from all other sensors and key pads, computes it, and transmits relevant information to the monitoring company. If you choose to arm the system from the panel when you leave the house, the master control panel also receives the disarm code when you return home. Some can even be disarmed by telephone!

Of course, this list is not comprehensive, and the needs of every home and homeowner are different. For more tips on choosing the right home alarm system and features to protect your house, I recommend visiting alarmoneinc.com.

About the Author: Jordan McCollum is a web content specialist for 10x Marketing. She enjoys reading, ice skating and watching Law & Order. For more information on house alarmand home security systems, please visit alarmoneinc.com

Tips for Working on Plaster Walls

If you live in an older house, say 50 or 60 years or older, there is a good likelihood that you have plaster on your walls. Plaster walls were very common, especially in the late 18th century and 19th century. Plaster was fairly readily available, was workable, and was capable of producing very smooth walls and ornate embellishments. It was and is however, very difficult to worth with. It took a fine plasterer many years to learn his trade under the careful instruction of a master plasterer.

Plaster is still widely available, though rarely used. Just check the painting aisles of your local home improvement center and you'll see it mixed in with spackle and patching compound. The reason for its demise was the invention of joint compound. Unlike plaster, joint compound (or drywall compound) is easy to work with. It is slow to set up and harden, is very easy to sand, mixes easily, can be purchased already-mixed, and is easy to clean up. Joint compound works by simply letting the water evaporate out, leaving the hard, white stuff on the wall.

Plaster, on the other hand, sets up quickly, hardens like cement, is very difficult to work with once it starts to set up, is hard to clean up, and must be mixed up as needed and in quantities that can be worked with quickly. Plaster as it sets up, is actually a chemical reaction between the solid plaster and the water.

For this reason, joint compound is the natural choice for most new homes and patching jobs. However, plaster is by far the superior product. A plaster wall is rock hard, has a solid sound, and feel, is not easy damaged or scratched, and can withstand some abuse. These properties make for some interesting remodeling and repairs.

A simple task such as hanging a hook for a picture frame can cause large chunks of plaster to break free from the wall and come crashing down. Try to drive a drywall screw into plaster can be an exercise in frustration as chunks break out of the wall and the screw getting dulled by the plaster, Drill bits and saw blades dull instantly on contact.

Because of these challenges with plaster, I have compiled a few tips for working with it. Be aware, that these work for me in most situations, but plaster can be different and behave differently in different locations, so work very carefully.

1. When hanging a picture frame from a hook with a nail in it, first tape a large piece of masking tape over the area where you will drive the nail. This will help prevent chip-out. Once the nail is in place, remove the tape.
2. Another way to insert a wall hanger for a picture frame is to drill a small pilot hole for the nail. The pilot hole need not be deep. Just deep enough to penetrate the topcoat of plaster. If you see brown dust coming from the drill bit, you are through the topcoat and into the brown coat.
3. To drive a screw through plaster, always drill a pilot hole!
4. Never use a drywall screw in plaster to hold anything! Even though it may seem that the plaster is holding it in place, you risk tearing out a large chunk of plaster should you find a weak spot. Always screw through the plaster and into the studs.
5. When screwing through plaster and into the wall studs, make sure you are into the wall studs and not the wood lath that holds the plaster on the wall! Pulling down lath is one of the worst things you can do, as it will pull down large chunks of plaster with it!
6. Standard stud finders don't work on plaster walls. You need stud sensors that feature some sort of deep penetrating technology. Common stud finders are designed for half-inch drywall walls and can distinguish plaster thickness very well.
7. Use the tapping technique to find studs. Plaster has good harmonics and by tapping or rapping it with your knuckles, you can usually hear the hollows between the studs fairly easily. 8. Like anything else in an old house, be extra careful! There weren't building codes when many of these houses were built so there is no guarantee that you wall studs are evenly spaced, that there aren't old pipes in the walls, or that abandoned and antiquated plumbing and electrical lines exist in the walls.

Remember, work slowly and smartly! Never rush an old house project. Take a few minutes to think things out several times. You will still run into surprises, but if you work slowly and deliberately, hopefully, they won't ruin your day!

About the Author: Dean Novosat is an avid do-it-yourselfer and remodeler. He has transformed every home he has lived in. He has several websites including: http://www.build-decks-patios.com and http://www.the-kitchen-designer.com.

New Tax Breaks for Energy Efficient Home Improvements

If you would like to make your existing home more energy efficient and get some help paying for the improvements, you need to know about the Energy Tax Incentives Act of 2005. The new law provides a $500 lifetime credit against your federal income tax for the cost of certain energy-saving home improvements that you make to your home after December 31, 2005 and before January 1, 2008. Up to $200 of the tax credit may be applied to windows.

As you may know, a tax credit is far more favorable than a deduction of the same amount. Deductions only reduce the amount of income that is subject to tax. A tax credit, on the other hand, is a dollar for dollar reduction of the tax due when you file your income tax return. So, if you are in the 28% income tax bracket, the new $500 credit is equivalent to a tax deduction of nearly $1800!

Here are highlights of the new provisions:

There is an overall lifetime cap on the credit of $500, and a maximum of $200 of the credit may be applied to qualified window expenditures. Subject to those limitations, you may receive a credit for the sum of the following:

Building Envelope Components. Ten (10%) percent of your expenditures for so called "building envelope components" will qualify for the tax credit. Building envelope components include the following:

• any insulation material or system which is specifically and primarily designed to reduce the heat loss or gain of a dwelling unit when installed in or on such dwelling unit,
  exterior windows (including skylights),
• exterior doors, and
• any metal roof installed on a dwelling unit, but only if such roof has appropriate pigmented coatings which are specifically and primarily designed to reduce the heat gain of such dwelling unit.

To qualify for the credit, the building envelope components must be installed in or on a dwelling unit (including a manufactured home) located in the United States that is owned by you and used by you as your principal residence. Installation of envelope components in a second or vacation home or rental property therefore will not qualify for the new tax break.
Only new components are eligible for the credit and the components must reasonably be expected to remain in use for at least 5 years.

Energy efficient property expenditures. Amounts paid for "residential energy property expenditures" will also qualify for the credit up to the following specific limits:

• Up to $50 for any advanced main air circulating fan;
• Up to $150 for any qualified natural gas, propane or oil furnace or hot water boiler;
• Up to $300 for any item of "energy-efficient building property." This includes certain qualifying electrical heat water pumps, electric heat pumps, geothermal heat pumps, central air conditioners and natural gas, propane or oil water heaters.

Expenditures for labor costs for onsite preparation, assembly or original installation may be included. Improvements must be installed in or in connection with a dwelling unit located in the United States that is owned by you and used by you as your principal residence.

There are energy efficiency standards described in the new law that your home improvements must meet, so some investigation on your part will be necessary to be sure that the improvements will qualify for the credit. For this reason, if you hire a third party to do the work, your written agreement with the contractor should include the contractor's guaranty that the installed property will meet the energy efficiency standards of the new law.
There is one potential trade-off, if you use the credit. Many improvements to your home will increase your "tax basis" in the property, and this increased tax basis may, in turn, reduce the amount of capital gain that is realized if you sell your home at a profit. The increase in tax basis that would otherwise result from energy efficient improvements that qualify for the credit will be reduced by the amount of the allowed credit. Since the tax credit decreases your tax basis, you are likely to have more capital gain at the time of sale. This will not affect you if all of the capital gain realized at the time of sale is protected by the $250,000 exclusion ($500,000 for married couples) for gains realized on the sale of your principal residence. But even if there is an increase in the taxable capital gain realized when you sell your home, it will almost certainly be outweighed by the advantage of using the new income tax credit currently.

Like so much of the Internal Revenue Code, the new provisions encouraging energy efficient home improvements seem unnecessarily complicated, but we have to consider the source - Congress! However, a bit of patience and careful planning will bring you some very real tax savings and help the environment to boot!

About the Author: John Pollock, Northville, MichiganLearn more about Energy saving home improvementJohn Pollock has practiced as an attorney in the Detroit, Michigan area for the past 25 years. His practice focuses on estate planning, tax and small business matters. John is also the webmaster of http://www.forms-free-4-all.com a site offering free legal forms such as durable powers of attorney, wills, bills of sale, business plans and many others. His website also provides easy to understand explanations of the forms and relevant law.

Granite Tile Countertops

The beauty and warmth of granite makes it an ideal material for aesthetic appeal in home design. Granite has been a popular choice of designers for decades. Adding solid granite countertops to a kitchen can be quite costly, with prices starting at $60 a foot installed. Although granite countertops are very popular, solid granite countertops may not be for everyone. A homeowner may not be willing or able to invest in granite, or a home is in an area subject to limitations on resale values. In cases like this, it may be best to consider granite tile countertops as an acceptable alternative to the solid stone installations.

Granite tile countertops are fashioned from the same desirable stone as the solid granite countertops. All the desirable elements of the granite remain the same in the tiles. Not all blocks taken from the quarry are large enough for the slabs for the solid countertops. Smaller blocks and broken slabs will be cut into square tiles measuring 12, 24 or 36 inches in diameter. Granite tiles have a variety of uses that include premium flooring and shower installations. Hundreds of color choices are available to fit with most any design scheme.

Granite tile countertops can withstand a hot pot without a trivet, and serve as an excellent surface for handling dough and confectionery. The natural beauty of granite tile countertops complement most any type of wood or style of cabinetry. The versatility of granite tiles creates a wide range of options for installations. Entire sections of kitchen countertops and backsplashes can be crafted from granite tiles, just as ceramic tiles would be used. To lessen the labor of installing tiles in a large kitchen, only add granite tiles to the island for a focal point, setting it apart from ordinary material choices on the other countertops.

Granite tiles provide a grand solution for the homeowner on a budget, allowing the home chef to enjoy all the benefits of granite countertops. Twenty-four or thirty-six inch tiles can be inlaid or set into any other material, such as laminated countertops or solid wood. Strategically placed twenty-four inch granite tiles inlaid near the range or oven will protect ordinary countertops from searing hot pans. A thirty-six inch granite tile set into the counter at a work area serves as an excellent surface for rolling dough and working with confectionery.

The practical and aesthetic choice of granite tile countertops has proven to be a wise investment for homeowners. Clever design plans allow homeowners to enjoy the benefits of granite without great expense. Granite tile countertops offer matchless appeal.

Granite Countertops provides detailed information on granite kitchen and tile countertops, advice on installing and cleaning granite countertops, information on price and locations to purchase discount granite counter tops, and more. Granite Countertops is the sister site of Kitchen Sinks Web.

About the Author: Jason Gluckman, Jason@e-granitecountertops.comLearn more about granite countertopsGatlinburg Cabins Info provides information on Gatlinburg cabins, Gatlinburg cabin rentals, properties for sale, weddings and related topics. Gatlinburg Cabins Info is the sister site of Pigeon Forge Cabins Web.

Gas Fireplaces: Adding Warmth To Your Home

No matter where you live, in a townhouse, a lakeside cottage, an urban loft, or a vintage Victorian mansion, there is always a place for a gas fireplace. Convenient and easy to use, gas fireplaces today offer an abundance of design ideas to suit both your lifestyle and the style of your home.

According to the recent statistics, a fireplace is one of the most commonly anticipated features in a modern home. Freestanding gas fireplaces deliver radiant heat to any room in your house – from kitchen to dining room and even bedroom, - or outdoors, warming your patio or a backyard. Classic terracotta finish or modern and minimalist brushed steel can give a whole new look to any of your rooms.

Modern fireplaces offer a variety of choices when in comes to fuelling. They may be wood burning, gas- or propane-fuelled, as well as liquid fuelled. The choice is totally up to you. Do you plan to chop wood, or you opt for a convenience of a gas? The kind of fuel you choose is a crucial factor in deciding what kind of fireplace to buy. Consider availability and cost, heat efficiency and your local air pollution standards. There are special regulations that concern the design, verification and labeling of gas fireplaces or imported into the North America. Gas fireplaces are very energy efficient and can even be used to heat a whole house. With a prefabricated duct system heat travels from one room to another, however, not many households allow for this unless installed during construction.

Gas fireplaces, being very easy to use, can be even turned on with a remote control or by the Internet in the new smart home! Thermostats allow for an easy heat adjustment, and with many programmable features you can also change the flame length and intensity.

Gas fireplaces are fuelled by propane or natural gas. Propane can be stored in a reservoir on your property, however, it can be more expensive in the rural areas compared to the wood. But with this type of fireplaces, you don’t need a lot of logs to chop and store. In general, gas fireplaces require significantly less maintenance.

The firebox of the gas fireplace is lined with a refractory material that looks like bricks or stones. Instead of blue unappealing flame that most of us expect from the gas, the fireplaces emit completely natural-looking flames that spout from invisible holes in prefabricated ceramic logs. Often these logs form a realistic pile on the bottom of the firebox. Some people prefer the inserts that look like a coal in Victorian-styled fireplaces.

Gas fireplaces are becoming a more and more popular alternative to conventional built-in fireplaces. Gas fireplaces can be as individual as you are. They can be framed in wood, finished in stucco, stone, or tile, thus fitting into most landscapes and home design solutions. Gas fireplace can become a focal point of your backyard or patio, and as any room in your home, an outdoor space must bear the same design concept as indoors. That is why when choosing a fireplace you should think about the environment in which it will be placed and how it will fit with the existing decor. But no matter which technology or functionality you choose, it is largely a design and materials that give your new appliance it’s distinctive style and make a design statement.

About the Author: Kathryn writes articles on a number of different topics. For more information about Fireplaces please visit http://www.fireplace-ideas.com and for additional fireplace and mantle articles please visit the following page http://www.fireplace-ideas.com/fireplace-articles/

Source: www.isnare.com

Don't Replace Your Vinyl Siding, Renew It

(ARA) - Getting tired of looking at that faded siding on your home? Many homeowners believe their only alternative is to replace siding that has lost its luster as a result of UV radiation and acid rain. But there is a less expensive solution.

Before you replace that faded vinyl, aluminum or steel siding on your home, you may want to consider another option that can save you money -- while at the same time giving your siding a new look and long-lasting protection.

Vinyl ReNu is an environmentally friendly anti-microbial polymer that addresses the root cause of the oxidation and fading. Scientists from the Polymer Research and Engineering Center at the University of Southern Mississippi -- experts in the field of polymer science -- conducted extensive research in developing Vinyl ReNu, which is made by Dur-A-Shield International, Inc., a company long known for its restoration products for exterior surfaces. The scientists have incorporated the latest polymer technology to restore and protect vinyl, aluminum and steel siding from nature's elements."

Homeowners need to know that it is very important to get to the real cause of the fading and oxidation. Otherwise, simply cleaning the siding, pressure-washing it or painting it, won't last -- and it will soon once again have that dull chalky appearance," says Vincent R. Valles, Sr., founder of Dur-A-Shield.

Vinyl ReNu has developed a specific cleaning and restoration process to restore the color and brilliance of vinyl, aluminum or steel siding. All of its contractors must go through training classes at least twice a year to keep up with the latest application training techniques. Restoring your vinyl, aluminum or steel siding with a product such as Vinyl ReNu costs about one-fifth less than replacing siding and it carries a 10-year guarantee. Valles says even some of the largest vinyl and steel siding manufacturers in the country are using the product to satisfy warranty claims because it is more cost-effective than replacing the siding.

By restoring your siding instead of replacing it, you will also be doing your part to cut down on the millions of pounds of old and faded siding dumped into landfills each year.

Vinyl ReNu forms a clear, tough shield that protects the surface, it's built in biocide also prevents the growth of mold, mildew and fungus. And if you are a homeowner who would like to have a different color for your siding, you can paint after you have used it.

For the closest authorized dealer in your area visit our web site at www.vinylrenu.com or www.durashield.com or by calling (800) 280-1322.

Courtesy of ARA Content

Fixing a Frozen Pipe

In just a matter of a months winter will be upon us. Besides bundling up from the cold and shoveling snow, homeowners sometimes have to deal with the additional task of fixing frozen pipes.

Prevention is the Best Medicine

The best way to deal with frozen pipes is to prevent them in the first place. If you have the luxury of participating and/or overseeing the building of your home, make sure the plumber does not run any plumbing supply lines in the outside walls of the home. Even if he indicates he will wrap them in insulation, do not accept this compromise. I have seen even insulated pipes in outside walls freeze.

If, however, you have an existing home and there are plumbing supply lines running on the outside walls that you have access to, then insulate these pipes with pipe insulation. It is better than nothing.

How to Fix a Frozen Pipe

If in the event you do find yourself with a frozen pipe, then I recommend the following:

· Close the supply line valve and open the faucet at the end of the pipe.

· Examine the entire length of pipe looking for cracks, breaks or holes, particularly focusing on the suspect cold areas, e.g. crawl spaces and outside walls.

Thaw Out the Damaged Pipe

· Once the crack, break or hole has been identified, use a hair dryer to heat up the surrounding pipe area to get the water flowing again through the pipe. Check the faucet regularly to see when the water begins to flow again. Once the water begins to flow it is time to move on to the repairing phase.

Note: The amount of water flowing out of the faucet will be limited as the supply line valve was shut off.

Repairing the Damage Supply Line

· Once the damaged pipe area has been thawed out, using a hack saw or pipe cutter, remove a section of pipe that includes the broken section.

· Replace this section of pipe. Use a propane torch, solder and flux to sweat the new joints.

· If you are not comfortable cutting and replacing the damaged pipe, pending the size of the crack or break you could simply wrap duct tape or electrical tape around the affected area for a temporary fix. However, a plumber should be brought in as soon as possible to fix the leak permanently.

· Once the pipe has been repaired, turn the supply line valve back on, run the faucet and check the repaired site for any leaks.

· Finally, apply some pipe insulation and/or electrical pipe-heating wire around the repaired area to prevent the problem from occurring again.

Bathroom Ceramic Tile - Tips for Using Ceramic Custom Tile

Bathroom ceramic tile is a good choice because of its durability, resistance to dampness and its ease of cleaning. Bathroom ceramic tile can range from inexpensive to very expensive, and it is a classic choice for a bathroom.

Ceramic tile is formed from clay, shale or porcelain, then fired at very high temperatures until it hardens. The higher the temperature and the more times the tile is fired, the harder and less porous the tile becomes. Tile for bathrooms comes in many shapes, sizes, patterns and textures. Tile shapes can be squares, rectangles, hexagons and octagons. Accent tiles are narrow-shaped and diamond-shaped pieces.

Tile can be glazed or unglazed. Unglazed bathroom ceramic tile is simply baked pieces of clay whose colors are determined by the mineral content of the clay. These tiles are the workhorses of the industry. Generally thicker and denser than glazed tiles, they include products such as quarry tiles and porcelains. The toughness of unglazed tiles make them ideally suited (but not limited to) heavy commercial installations.

Here are tips for using ceramic tile in a bathroom:

1. Consider using unglazed bathroom ceramic tile if you want to have the most slip-resistant surface. The rugged surface texture and matte finish of these tiles give them good slip-resistant qualities for use in wet areas. If you buy and install unglazed tiles for your bathroom floor, they will need to be cleaned frequently because they absorb oil and stains quite easily. Examples of unglazed tiles are quarry tiles, porcelain tiles and terra-cotta tiles which can be handmade or machine-made.

2. If you are using a white or cream ceramic tile for your bathroom, using a different color grout like "blue" will give your bathroom a more dramatic look.

3. Make sure you apply sealers to grout lines in areas of heavy wear, like countertops. Sealers will protect and preserve grout colors.

4. For a floor surface that is virtually stainproof, use glazed bathroom ceramic tile. Glazed bathroom ceramic tile is made the same way as unglazed tile, but it undergoes an additional process. A glass layer is applied, then subjected to tremendous heat in a kiln. This process liquefies the glass and fuses it to the bisque. Glazes offer an unlimited array of beautiful colors, textures and designs and create a surface that is practically stainproof and very wearable. While most glazed tiles are for light residential to medium commercial traffic uses, recent technological advances produce glazed tiles that are hard and durable enough to stand up to the most demanding commercial applications.

5. To make your bathroom floor more exciting, add patterns, floor accents or small splashes of color using ceramic custom tile pieces. Or consider using large rectangular decorative sections placed in the middle of the floor. Custom ceramic tile or art tile can be found with Victorian, Mexican or Moorish styled designs and they can also be used as bathroom backsplashes, tub surrounds and in showers.

6. For countertops and backsplashes, make sure the tiles are glazed and can withstand household cleaners. And backsplashes are a great place to add decorative tile.
7. To tie it all together, pay attention to the available bathroom accessories. Towel bars, ceramic soap dishes, toothbrush/cup holders -- you'll want these to blend in well with your bathroom ceramic tile.

With all the choices that await you today, have fun as you select the styles, colors, patterns and sizes of bathroom ceramic tile and related details for your bathroom. You'll want your bathroom to be a fun, cozy room to spend time in, and bathroom ceramic tile can help create that kind of atmosphere. Bathroom ceramic tile is decorative and lasting -- use it in the ways you want for having the bathroom that you can enjoy every day.

Copyright 2005 InfoSearch Publishing

About the Author: David Buster is VP of InfoSearch Publishing and webmaster of http://www.yourdreamloghome.com - learn more about bathroom tile ideas and bathroom layout, lighting, storage, bathroom vanities, small bathrooms, childrens bathrooms and more.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

Tips for Increasing Your Home's Resale Value

(ARA) - Selling your house? There are many ways to get top dollar for your home without spending a lot of time and money. All it takes is a little bit of ingenuity and a few tried-and-true home improvement tips.

"One of the areas that can really make an impression on the potential homebuyer is the exterior and backyard," said Dave Martel, veteran contractor and co-inventor of Tiger Claw hidden deck fasteners. "A nice lush green lawn and attractive landscaping are two of the most obvious things to look for, but there's something more. The next time you see a deck, patio, porch or hot tub area, look down. Chances are you'll see ugly black stains, wood rot, and splits and cracks in the wood. A relatively new deck can look ages old."

These imperfections are caused by the use of traditional nails and screws. Today if you want to improve the value of your home and increase your chances of selling it quickly, think about replacing the top deck boards and using hidden deck fasteners.

Today's hidden deck fasteners create a smooth "nail-free" surface, which preserves the beauty of the wood and reduces splitting, splintering, cupping, and rotting. Costs and installation times have been dramatically reduced thus making this an affordable and easy project for do-it-yourselfers. Homeowners can now have a better-looking, longer-lasting and safer deck.

Tiger Claw hidden deck fasteners are the front leaders on the market today. They're constructed from heavy gauge stainless steel that is compatible with new pressure treated chemicals for lumber. They also offer outstanding hold-down power for both wood and synthetic decking materials such as Fiberon, Trex, and other composites.

To get the most value from your deck with the least amount of cost, replace the surface deck boards with an inexpensive grade of wood (pressure treated), use the Tiger Claw hidden fasteners, and finish with a deeper shade of brown stain. That will give the deck the appearance of hardwood flooring. Once potential buyers see the difference, they won't be happy with anything else. The Tiger Claw hidden deck fasteners give a very high-end look without the high-end price tag. Visit www.deckfasteners.com to learn more.

You can further enhance your home's outdoor living space by adding a retractable awning over the resurfaced deck or patio. Replace or paint old and rotting wood surrounding windows and doors, add some new shrubs and flowers, and you have created a fresh new exterior for your house, complete with a cozy backyard paradise.

For inside the house, you'd be surprised just how much difference a fresh coat of paint can make. Select a warm, yet conservative paint that makes the rooms look large, open and inviting. For kitchens and bathrooms, change the hardware and perhaps replace the cabinet door fronts. Clean and organize closets to make them look larger. Eliminate clutter everywhere. Add some designer touches, such as flowers, candles, picture frames, and bowls of potpourri and you're on your way to making your house a hot property, worth potentially thousands of dollars more than your original asking price.

Courtesy of ARA Content

Demand for Composite Decking on the Rise

(ARA) - Few products have had such a dramatic effect on the home improvement industry as composite decking over the last few years. With few exceptions, building products generally change very little from year to year. So when the demand for any new product exceeds double-digit growth, everyone in the industry wants a piece of the action. The result has been a number of manufacturers rushing to introduce a variety of new products. Homeowners are understandably confused about which one is right for their home.

Composite decking products, made primarily from a combination of wood or other cellulose fibers encased in synthetic material, have been around for more than a decade. The wood fiber adds strength. It also greatly reduces the expansion and contraction that can occur as decking heats and cools with changes in the weather. The synthetic material or plastic protects the wood from moisture, which can cause decay.

Homeowners are enticed by the lower maintenance that composite decking products offer. Traditional decks require time to maintain their original appearance. In contrast, composite decking products generally require no painting or staining and very little annual maintenance.

Composite decks also can be built with the same tools you use to construct a wood deck. Manufacturers usually suggest that you cut their products with a circular saw equipped with a blade that has 20 or more teeth per inch. Most composite decking products do have to be attached using screws instead of nails. However, most professional decking installers would recommend a quality screw for any material because it's less likely to come loose as decking materials expand and contract.

So if you think you might want to use composite materials to build or replace your next deck, how do you choose the one that's right for your home? The most basic difference between brands is the material itself.

The key to making a long-lasting, durable composite product is to fully encapsulate the wood particles. Large wood fibers can be difficult to surround and protect. A close look at the surface of some composite decking boards will reveal wood chips that are or could become exposed to the elements with a little wear. Exposed wood chips would eventually decay. What's a good alternative?

Oasis composite decking is manufactured and warranted by Alcoa and distributed by Weyerhaeuser. It's made entirely of first generation, high-density polyethylene (HDPE) and yellow pine finely ground to the consistency of flour. Its fine wood particles can be well encapsulated for high moisture resistance. The small particles also meld together to create a strong product with color distributed all the way through the board.

Oasis also features a reversible surface with one side featuring the texture of natural wood grain and the other a brushed texture. It comes in four colors: Coastal Redwood, Light Oak, Spanish Cedar and Weathered Grey. Each board has slight, natural variations that enhance with exposure to the sun. Oasis composite decking is available in two thicknesses for maximum flexibility. Fascia boards, rails, post covers, post caps and balusters are also available in various dimensions. Oasis products are covered by a manufacturer's 10-year, limited warranty.

To learn more about Oasis, call (877) 235-6873 or visit www.weyerhaeuser.com/wbm.

Courtesy of ARA Content

Retractable Awnings Turn Decks and Patios into Added Living Space

(ARA) - Building an addition to a home can be inconvenient and costly. More and more homeowners are avoiding this hassle and choosing instead to expand their homes by adding a splash of color and timeless style through custom retractable awnings.

Consumers are seeing retractable awnings as an elegant and practical way to increase living space and the value of their homes. Retractable awnings allow them to expand their home beyond its interior boundaries and turn decks and patios into added living space. They combine the comfort of an indoor lifestyle with the beauty of outdoor living.

People have used awnings to keep indoor and outdoor spaces cool and shielded from the damaging effects of the sun for thousands of years. It's no surprise that today's energy-conscious homeowners are rediscovering the benefits of awnings for countless applications, including decks, porches, terraces, windows and window expanses. Awnings shelter homes from the sun's harmful rays and prevent fading of carpets and furniture while conserving energy.

By adding an awning to a home, solar heat gain can be greatly reduced by limiting the amount of direct and indirect sunlight that enters a window or door. According to studies conducted by the American Society of Heating and Air Conditioning Engineers, the use of fabric awnings reduces solar heat gain by up to 77 percent and lowers indoor temperatures.

"Retractable awnings are quick, easy and very convenient. Simply flip a switch and the awning rolls out effortlessly," says Larry Bedosky, director of marketing for Durasol Awnings, America's leading brand of custom-made, professionally-installed, retractable awnings. "Relief from the hottest summer sun is literally at the homeowner's fingertips -- allowing them to let in as little or as much sun as desired."

Durasol offers a complete line of solar shading systems designed to meet a variety of shading needs. The Durasol SunShelter Series of "lateral arm" awnings are custom-made to suit any home size and style, offering a variety of projection ranges and virtually unlimited widths to meet any space requirement. SunShelter awnings can be mounted on virtually any flat surface, under a soffit, or even on a roof when limited mounting height is available. An optional Drop Valance allows a section of fabric to be manually lowered from the front bar, providing additional solar protection from early morning and late afternoon sun.

Long lasting 100 percent acrylic fabrics, combined with non-corrosive hardware, contribute to a maintenance-free investment. "Awnings of the past were generally made of cotton or canvas fabrics and were easily affected by time and the elements," says Bedosky. "The newer solution-dyed, acrylic covers provide a better fit, greater stability and can last for well over ten years."

With a wide variety of over 200 vibrant fabric colors and patterns, Durasol's retractable awnings will compliment any décor. An optional Wind Sensor is available which allows awnings to automatically retract when wind speeds reach a predetermined level, preventing awning damage. A Sun Sensor can also be added to allow for automatic operation determined by the sun's strength. An interior wireless remote control is an option that provides easy-access operation. When not in use, Durasol Awnings are easily retracted, safely stored, and will subtly blend in with the exterior beauty of any home.

Retractable awnings become an extension of a home's personality and charm. They add lasting value and classic beauty that will remain absolutely timeless.

To learn more about Durasol Awnings or to locate your local dealer, visit them online at www.durasol.com.

Courtesy of ARA Content

Polywood Shutters: A Beautiful Year-round Solution for Seasonal Energy Conservation

(ARA) - Winterizing your home to save on energy bills does not always have to be a seasonal hassle, or one that is repeated year after year. An important way to start preparing for winter weather is to properly insulate your windows, a common escape route for warm air inside your house.

In the past, homeowners have relied on inconvenient and temporary winterizing methods such as unsightly weather stripping, bulky extra insulation, and other less attractive techniques to keep the winter cold outside and the wanted warmth inside. These are quick fixes that need to be updated again and again.

According to the National Association of Home Builders, windows are one of the largest sources of heat loss in the winter due to their low insulating ability and high air leakage rates. As a result, windows are typically net energy losers, and can be responsible for losing 25 to 50 percent of the energy used to heat and cool homes.

Sunburst Shutters offers homeowners a beautiful and permanent way to create more insulated, energy efficient windows -- Polywood interior shutters.

Polywood is a synthetic material that's been proved to be more energy efficient than any other window treatment. Third-party thermal conductivity research comparing the energy efficiency of Polywood shutters to that of wood shutters and aluminum mini-blinds found that Polywood shutters are 70 percent more energy efficient than wood shutters and 1,600 percent more energy efficient than aluminum mini-blinds.

Polywood shutters have the appearance of real wood, but without the problems commonly associated with wood shutters such as cracking, warping, and peeling. Polywood is a solid resin that blocks air flow through your windows.

Researchers are not the only ones aware of the energy-saving characteristics of Polywood. Homeowners across the country have had these durable shutters installed to create energy-efficient homes in both hot and cold climates.

Massachusetts resident David Mintz says he saw a 20 percent savings in his energy bill after installing Polywood interior shutters in his home. In a state where winter temperatures regularly reach below freezing, conserving heat is a high priority for most households each winter.

"Bottom line, Polywood shutters have been an amazing investment for our home," says Mintz. "We have had them for the past two winters, and we spent significantly less on heating bills each year. Plus they are a beautiful addition to every room of the house -- we even installed them on our basement windows."

Mintz also notes that the shutters help block out light and sound, in addition to the cold winter air. "When the shutters are closed, our room stays pitch black and we don't hear the sounds of traffic outside -- nothing gets through."

Polywood shutters from Sunburst are the only window treatment to bring classic beauty, value, and energy savings to your home year-round. Instead of weather stripping your windows (or other unsightly winterizing methods) year after year, install interior shutters once to save money on your heating bill this winter. You'll enjoy their energy efficiency as well as the beauty they add to your windows. To locate a retail store near you, visit www.sunburstshutters.com.

Courtesy of ARA Content

Make Fall Cleanup Easier

(ARA) - Summer goes by so quickly, you don't want to miss a minute of it. But as the days get shorter and the temperatures cool down, the signs are unmistakable - fall is on its way. And even though you know you need to be preparing your lawn, garden and home for the coming months, who wants to waste precious summer days doing chores? Here are some tips to get those pesky tasks finished quickly so you can enjoy your weekends.

Garden - You've probably had your fill of zucchini and tomatoes by now. If your plants have stopped producing, it's time to start the garden cleanup. Pull up any spent plants and give your soil a head start for next year by turning it over and adding compost.

Flower gardens should also be cleaned up. Cut back perennials that are done blooming, and keep deadheading annuals to encourage flowering as long as possible. Be sure to keep up with the weeding - the fewer weeds you have this fall, the fewer you'll have to deal with next year. Before the really cold weather sets in, lay down a thick cover of mulch to help protect your plants over the winter.

Lawn - Keep mowing and watering so your lawn isn't stressed going into the fall. Give it one more dose of "weed and feed" fertilizer to give it an extra boost. Now is also a good time to aerate your lawn - try wearing your golf shoes next time you mow.

Outdoor Furniture - If you have vinyl furniture, give it a good washing and take it in to store. Wood furniture can be more of a chore - you'll want to inspect it for damage and do any necessary repairs before you store it for the winter. This could mean sanding, scraping and repainting or restaining.

Maybe now is the time to consider replacing that lightweight vinyl and inconvenient wood furniture with stylish, low maintenance outdoor furniture. A Minnesota-based company called By The Yard sells lawn furniture made from recycled plastic milk jugs that is attractive and virtually maintenance-free. The plastic lumber is colorfast, so it never needs repainting, and it is impervious to all types of weather from freezing temperatures to blistering heat. It can withstand moist or dry climates. "We've tested our products in Alaska, the Arizona desert and the Florida Keys and after 30 years they still look great," says company president Deb Anderson.Because the heavy-duty polymer used to manufacture the furniture can hold up to the elements, there's no need to drag your lawn furniture into the garage or basement in the fall, only to drag it out again in the spring - simply leave it in your yard year-round. What could be easier? All you need to do is hose the furniture off in the spring and you're ready to enjoy it.

Because the material weighs about 20 percent more than cedar, it won't blow around outside like lightweight furniture does. The material is also extremely flexible, which make sit as comfortable as it is durable, even without cushions.

Decks and Patios - wood decks need to be cleaned and resealed periodically to maintain their looks and their structural integrity. Check your deck to see if it is showing signs of wear and tear. If your patio has settled over the summer, now is a good time to patch any cracks that have developed so they don't get worse over the winter.

House Exterior - Patch any cracks in the foundation and touch up any peeling or cracking outdoor paint. Clean your gutters one last time so melting snow and ice won't get trapped this winter.

A few quick preventive measures can make next spring much more pleasant, and still give you time to enjoy the rest of your summer.

By The Yard furniture is available in 70 different styles and six colors. Choose from Adirondack styles, rockers and swings, table and chair sets, benches, gliders and loungers. For more information, visit www.bytheyard.net or call (877) 220-0448 for a free color catalog.

Courtesy of ARA Content

Daffodils--Fall Investment, Many Spring Returns

Plant Now for Spring Color

(ARA) - Gardeners -- start your spring color planning now because fall planting time is upon us. Here are three good reasons to add daffodils to your landscape planting schedule: First, there is a range and beauty in daffodils well beyond the traditional yellow trumpets you so often see along the roadways. Second, daffodils are great naturalizers that will flourish for many years with little care when planted in sunny, well drained flower beds. Finally, daffodils are deer and rodent resistant -- a major benefit for those of you struggling to garden in the presence of our tetrapoded friends. Simply put, daffodils are a good fall landscape investment providing many springs of beautiful returns.

Variety

Nearly 150 million Dutch daffodil bulbs are sold in the USA each year, and that amount has been growing six percent a year. Tim Schipper, a 3rd generation Dutch flower bulb merchant emphasizes that "the variety of color, size, shape and bloom times of daffodils is far greater than most gardeners know." According to The International Daffodil Register and Classified List published by the Royal Horticultural Society there are nearly 25,000 known varieties of daffodils. The fact is, however, that only 200 varieties are grown commercially and are generally affordable to residential and professional gardeners.

Daffodil Depot - For People Who Dig Daffodils.

For Daffodil Connoisseurs, a new specialized boutique at www.DaffodilDepot.com offers over 100 of the best and most unique daffodils at wholesale prices via the Internet and by mail order. Developed by Colorblends Flowerbulbs in conjunction with leading Dutch daffodil hybridizers, this new site is a virtual goldmine for people who dig daffodils. Daffodil Depot offers many limited production varieties not normally available to the general public.

Top Daffodil Picks

If you are finding it hard to decide on a specific variety, Daffodil Depot is offering a special collection called the Daffodil 100. This unique assembly is a virtual encyclopedia of daffodils, which are also referred to as Narcissus or Jonquils, running the gamut of colors (from yellow to orange to pink to white) with different flower types and very early to late blooming varieties. According to Tim Schipper, "The Daffodil 100 offers gardeners the chance to experience 100 different varieties of daffodils during an 8 week pageant, which runs from late winter through late spring."

For those seeking a more traditional yellow trumpet daffodil, Schipper recommends choosing from among three varieties, which in his view are the "Gold Standard" among yellow daffodils. All three -- Marieke, Carlton and Golden Harvest -- represent the successors to the throne of the old time favorite King Alfred daffodil, a variety that has dwindled over the years. Marieke is a strong, graceful and long lasting bloomer. Carlton flowers later and is also suited to warmer zones, while Golden Harvest is a bright yellow trumpet, vigorous, and long lasting perennializer suitable for many garden uses.

If you are seeking other specific daffodil varieties, here is a quick rundown of some top recommendations. Among the cupped-division both Pimpernel (yellow with a tangerine nose) and Accent (an American bred pink cup) are among Schipper's favorites. More exotic is Delnashaugh (double flowering fluffy peach and cream) and Gay Kybo (orange and white peony-like blooms) from the double-division; and there's Thalia (a floriferous, orchid-like white) from the triandrus group. From the cyclamineous-narcissus he selects Jetfire (jaunty little reflexed petals with a long orange cup); and the multi-flowered Pipit (feint lemon yellow flowers with tiny white cups) from the jonquil group. A variety especially close to Schipper's heart is Sailboat, which he enthusiastically describes as "a flowering little gem with white, swept back petals and soft yellow nose." And finally there is Old Pheasant's Eye (flat, pure white flower with a minute yellow red-rimmed cup) of the poet's division as a big favorite because of its incredible sweet fragrance, its tolerance for some shade and it being the very last daffodil to flower in the garden.

Naturalizing

To bloom well, daffodils require well-drained soil and about six hours of afternoon spring sun. A basic working guideline is 4 bulbs per square foot planted 7 inches deep. If you are naturalizing daffodils, plant bulbs farther apart than you would do for garden plantings. This spacing gives room for increase. And be sure to plant them in drifts or shoals for a naturalistic effect.

The basic rules for getting many years of glorious spring returns from your daffodils are as follows:

1) Adequate sunlight -- Don't plant in full shade and always allow the foliage to die back naturally.

2) Good drainage -- Bulbs hate wet feet or any signs of standing water.

3) Plant deeply - This allows the roots to draw necessary moisture during the growing season, and . . .

4) Nutritious soil -- It pays to give them a sprinkling of bulb food in early spring during the growing cycle.Under these circumstances, most daffodils will bloom and increase for many, many years.

Deer and Rodent Resistant

When deer are foraging and nibbling every garden plant you have, its reassuring to know that daffodils are about the last thing our four footed friends want to touch. The bulbs and foliage of daffodils contain lycorine and phenanthridine alkaloid crystals, which taste about as awful as they sound. Thankfully, deer memories are good enough to remember bad experiences. In most cases, after just a sniff or nibble, deer will walk away.

More Bang for the Buck

In daffodils, bulb size matters. Always go for a topsize or double nose bulb which will produce 2 or 3 flower stems rather than a smaller landscape grade of bulb, which may produce only one flower. After all, it takes just as much effort to plant a topsize bulb as a smaller bulb, so why waste the energy. The moral here is to buy daffodil bulbs based on the cost per flower rather than the cost per bulb. Given the delightful variety, natural durability and deer-resistance of daffodils, you're looking at many happy years of blooming returns.

You can find more information about daffodils by visiting www.daffodildepot.com or www.colorblends.com or call toll free (888) 847-8637 to request a Colorblends 2005 Wholesale Catalog.

Courtesy of ARA Content

Getting Perennials Ready for Spring ... Now!

(ARA) - The air is cooler. Clouds are darker. Plants are losing their summer luster. Fall flowers are blooming. Now is the time to get ready for spring! Right?

Getting Ready

Perennial plants are always getting ready for the next season. In the spring, they are getting ready to grow and flower. In the summer, they are in full-swing with blooms and leaves. By fall, they are storing food in their roots, getting ready to go dormant. In the winter, perennial plants are reading gardening books to find out who their new neighbors will be.You can help perennials get ready for spring by feeding them in the fall and doing a few maintenance tricks. This advice is for all perennials: lawns, flowering plants, shrubs and trees. For specific instructions for exotic plants, contact your local nursery or county horticultural extension agent for help.

Food for WinterWhen perennials begin growing in the spring, they rely on food reserves that have been stored in their roots the previous fall. By fall-feeding plants, you help make sure that roots are filled with food reserves. This helps ensure perennials will survive winter's ravages and will be ready to grow vigorously when spring arrives. According to Mike Archer, research coordinator for Milorganite, "Using fertilizers that are high in water insoluble nitrogen keeps this nitrogen in the soil until plant roots can take it up. Using a slow release organic nitrogen fertilizer such as Milorganite 6-2-0 that is high in water-insoluble nitrogen keeps this nutrient from leaching into groundwater."

Trees -- Fertilize trees just as their leaves begin to die off. At this time, trees are rapidly moving food reserves into their root systems. An extra helping of a slow release fertilizer, which won't burn roots, helps trees survive the winter and begin growth in the spring. A slow release organic nitrogen fertilizer such as Milorganite 6-2-0 allows this safety. Milorganite products also contain a high amount of organically complexed iron which helps trees overcome early spring chlorosis, or yellowing. This is especially noticeable with many maple trees.

Lawns -- Northern lawns should be fertilized around Labor Day. This keeps them in good condition so their roots are full of reserves for winter and early spring. Another late fall fertilization after lawns quit growing but before freeze-up gives grass the nutrients it needs to survive the winter. Research at the University of Wisconsin indicates that northern lawns continue to need nutrients even when they are not actively growing. Starving lawns during early winter sets the stage for winter-kill.

Southern lawns are trickier to fertilize in the fall. Even though southern lawns benefit from a fall application of fertilizer, don't fertilize these lawns within 30 days of dormancy. If you fertilize too late, you will encourage growth when they should be entering dormancy. This causes winter kill. According to Dr. George Snyder, professor emeritus, University of Florida, "Use a fertilizer high in iron, such as Milorganite 6-2-0. This keeps your lawn looking nice and green without causing excessive growth. This green stays on even when lawns are not actively growing."

Other perennials -- Fertilize other perennials such as forbs (broad-leafed herbaceous plants) and shrubs in the fall. This helps them accumulate food reserves in their roots, getting them ready for winter and early spring startup. Generally, this means an application around Labor Day in order for nutrients to be taken up by the plants and transferred to root storage.

Watering

Some fall seasons you cannot go without your umbrella. And sometimes, you continually hear the crisp sound of leaves as they rustle about without the dampening effects of rain. If this is the kind of dry weather you are having, it is especially important you water your perennials. Without adequate water, perennials cannot move nutrients they need to survive the winter into their roots. Water deeply, to rooting depth. Shallow watering only teases plants and, in some cases, may do more harm than good.

According to Archer, "Watering plants in the fall is arguably the best insurance against winter kill. Water deeply and thoroughly. Water while plants still have their leaves and are actively getting ready for winter."

Cleaning up

House cleaning is not just limited to your house. Your garden plants also need regular cleaning to keep them healthy. Depending on your preference, removing dead plant debris can be done either in the fall or early spring. By cleaning up in the fall, you are giving plants a head start in the spring by not allowing debris to shade the ground from early spring sun. By waiting for spring, you are giving local wildlife a chance to eat seeds and collect debris for winter nesting. Thus, many gardeners wait for spring to clean up to give winter wildlife a better chance for survival.

No matter which you choose, definitely remove debris by the time plants begin growing in the spring. Removing this debris will also remove hibernating insects, their eggs, plus disease spores that have over-wintered in these stems and leaves. Don't put debris known to be infected in your mulch bin. Instead, bag it and place it in the trash so you don't infect new growth.

Tree leaves -- Use your mower to mulch leaves when they fall. Some leaves, such as from maples, lie flat on the ground and will smother grass. Mulching leaves speeds their decomposition into nutrients. Sharpening your mower blade will give you better results.

Now . . .Sit back, relax and start dreaming of spring. Your work will be rewarded, if not by a perfect yard, by one that will withstand the ravages of winter and be ready for you next spring. Enjoy!

For more information, visit www.milorganite.com or call (800) 304-6204.

Courtesy of ARA Content

Fall Into Gear: Tips for Making Your Home Energy Efficient

(ARA) - Fall is upon us, and with this finicky weather comes the great debate: Do we retreat indoors to escape sultry Indian-summer temps or find solace from frost-laden dew? Whether you're pumping up the heat or blasting cool air, we've got some energy-efficient tips to help you prepare your home for the coming change in season.

Controlling Comfort, Savings and Efficiency

Mom gets chilly in the living room but Dad roasts in the den. Programmable heating and cooling systems that are zoned to address diverse temperature household preferences, as well as a multitude of other air issues, may be the way to go. Check out Bryant's Evolution System, one of the first HVAC systems to implement an easy-to-use single control to integrate and manage all six comfort functions including temperature, humidity, air flow, ventilation, indoor air quality (IAQ) and zoning.

Managing up to eight different zones, the system is Energy Star certified and features longer heating and cooling cycles at lower fan speeds, which in turn translates into energy savings and more consistent temperatures throughout the home. Plus, the programmable feature means you can have customized air throughout the house, or a certain room, an hour before you arrive home from work without leaving the system running all day -- a true win-win situation for both people and pocketbooks!

Your Furnace and Fall

With chillier months on the horizon, your furnace can expect to run up to 15 hours in one day, so it's important to properly care and maintain it to ensure safe and efficient operation. Make sure air returns and distribution vents are clear to allow proper airflow. Clean or replace furnace filters about every two months. Have your ducts cleaned and sealed every three to five years by a professional. And, every year around this time, hire a licensed HVAC technician to perform routine service and maintenance. While the technician is at your home, ask if you should upgrade to a high-efficiency model that will conserve energy (and fatten your wallet via long-term savings benefits!).

Standard furnaces have an annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE) of 80 percent, while high-efficiency models average an AFUE of 93 or higher. So for every dollar you spend on heating energy, 93 percent versus 80 percent is circulated back into the home.

We've Got Questions

The information swirling around heating and cooling systems can prove to be downright daunting, so it's important to ask your local dealer for clarification and insight. Here are 10 popular questions that may help clear the air:

1. What type of system do I need to make my home comfortable?
2. What should I look for in a new furnace?
3. What should I look for in a new heat pump or air conditioner?
4. How do furnaces and boilers work?
5. How do air cleaners and humidifiers work?
6. How does zoning work?
7. How do thermostats work?
8. What simple maintenance and troubleshooting can I do myself?
9. When should I repair older equipment and when do I need to replace it?
10. How do I compare the performance of heating and cooling products?

For more information and to find a local dealer near you, visit www.bryant.com or call (888) 999-BRYANT.

Courtesy of ARA Content

How to Create the Home of Your Dreams

(ARA) - Options, accessories, alterations, choices, selection -- call it whatever you want, how we live today is all about customization. Whether you are shopping for a pair of shoes, an automobile or even a home, you can have it made your way. The options we have in front of us are limited only by our imagination. For example when building a new home, we have the option to create our own design. Imagine trying to design your own automobile from the ground up, a bit overwhelming to say the least.

Overwhelming was the mindset of Joe and Angie Dawson when they tried to find their perfect home plan. After ten years of dreaming and sketching, they were left looking through plan book after plan book. Trying to find a cookie-cutter floor plan that worked for them seemed impossible.

Knowing they wanted the natural beauty of wood and a distinctive look, a log home was their first choice. They called Wisconsin Log Homes to schedule a design consultation to get started. When they arrived at the corporate headquarters in Green Bay, Wis., the Dawsons literally had their thoughts and dreams in a shoebox. They had accumulated all these ideas, but had no clue how to put them into action.

The sales consultant guided the Dawsons through their shoebox by going through a few simple exercises to help them understand how they wanted their home to look, how they wanted their home to feel and how they wanted to live in their new log home. Here is a sneak peak at how the Dawsons got their custom design plans underway:

Get Organized. Most of us accumulate a rather hefty stack of magazines, newspaper clippings, and catalogs when starting a project of this caliber. Invest in a three ring binder and create tabs with labels of each room of your future home. Get organized by tearing out the pages that have interest to you and put them in the binder under the specific room. All the photos and ideas will now be at your finger tips. Keep it up to date and keep it handy.

Understand where you live now. If you don't know the square footage or room dimensions of your current home, now is a good time to grab a tape measure and a pad of paper. Once you have an inventory of your current home you can then evaluate whether you need to make rooms large or smaller. In addition, when you are reading blueprints you can relate to your current rooms to give you a sense of size.

Creating a wants and needs list. This is a pretty simple exercise. Make a list of all the needs in your home. For example, some items on your "needs" list may include a stove, refrigerator, or a two car garage. The "wants" list may include items such as a jacuzzi tub, fireplace, large deck, or steam shower. Implement the needs list into your design first and the wants list second as your budget allows.

Get your ideas on paper. Before the first shovel of dirt can be dug you have to have a plan. Whether you sketch out your ideas on a table napkin or hire an architect, your project will not get underway unless you take the ideas out of your head and get them on paper.

The team at Wisconsin Log Homes helped the Dawson's discover a log home design beyond what they had imagined. "I was so pleased when I received my first set of plans. The design team was able to incorporate all my wants, needs and desires into the plan. They really listened to what I had to say. And the pictures were worth more than 1,000 words." Now living in their log home, Joe and Angie routinely comment on how everyday is like a vacation, such a relaxed atmosphere. Their only regret is that they didn't build their log home dream sooner.

If you want to live the log home lifestyle like the Dawsons, but don't know where to start, give the folks at Wisconsin Log Homes a call. All homes are created by visions and dreams of people just like you. Start by obtaining the Wisconsin Log Homes planning guide filled with more than 100 plans and ideas. From there they can create your personalized home, and discuss the best way to get it built. Their helpful team can be reached by calling (800) 844-7976, or visit their Web page at www.wisconsinloghomes.com.

Courtesy of ARA Content

Quick Tips for Easy Home Winterizing

(ARA) - With cooler temperatures and shorter days looming on the horizon, it's time to get started on those projects to winterize your home. Home winterization is often overlooked, yet it is very important for the upkeep of your house. Fall is the perfect time for these projects, and there are many things you can do now to ready your home for the many cold months ahead.

First of all, look around your home and take note of anything that needs attention. It is likely that you will notice some holes in your drywall where cold air is entering your home and warm air is escaping. Mending drywall is a perfect project to complete in the early part of fall, before harsh winter temperatures set in. Repairing these unsightly holes will reduce energy bills throughout the year while preventing pest infestation.

This project can be completed in a short amount of time by simply removing sections of damaged drywall and replacing them with new pieces. Using a combination of drywall screws and construction adhesive, such as Ultra Quik Grip from the makers of Liquid Nails, saves valuable time and adds strength and stability to the new drywall. For step-by-step instructions and helpful hints, go to www.liquidnails.com.

While preparing your home for winter, it is also important to think about drafts from poorly sealed windows and doors. Sealing windows, unused doors, appliance vents and window air conditioning units can significantly lower your heating bills, with total energy savings amounting to $10 to $20 per window or door. Using a weather sealant, such as Windjammer Removable Weather Sealant, makes this money-saving task a time-saver as well. The formula is clear, requires no measuring or cutting and will not damage surfaces. Best of all, the nozzle allows for precise application and there is no need to use a caulk gun. Simply apply a clear bead between the window pane and glass for a draft-tight, waterproof seal that will keep the winter chill out of your home. Windjammer is also easily removed in the spring; simply peel the clear strip away from the window. For more information, visit www.getwindjammer.com.

Once the inside of your home is ready for the upcoming cold weather, it's time to head outdoors and prepare your yard. Bring tropical plants inside; this protects them from freezing and adds color to your home. Once trees have lost their leaves, clear all the debris from the yard. Don't forget to clear out rain gutters also, as the buildup keeps water inside, which can freeze and cause gutters to burst.

If you have a pond or other water feature in your yard, be sure to remove the leaves from it as well to avoid clogged filters. Make sure that the pond doesn't completely freeze by adding a floating pond de-icer to prevent ice from forming. If the climate permits, leave your pump running through the winter; it is better for the life of the pump. Otherwise, store your pond pump in a heated garage or inside the house. Visit www.888beckett.com for more information and helpful tips on winterizing your pond.

Completing these projects early this fall will assure that your home is winter-ready with time to spare. In as little as a weekend, your winterization projects can be completed, giving you more time to focus on upcoming holiday preparations for family and friends.

Courtesy of ARA Content

How to Install a Home Water Purifier

Installing a home water purifier is easier than you think. In fact, some water filters systems don't even require installation. For example, you can buy a pitcher water purifier. This is probably the least expensive type of water purifier available. You just fill the pitcher with tap water, and a filtering system in the filter cleans your water. Pitcher type filters are among the most commonly used water purifiers today.

You can also buy fluoride filters that often simply attach to your sink. These filters help remove metals from your water and other toxic contaminants, like arsenic, lead and fluoride. You can also buy filtration models that fit under your sink. Now these you will likely have to install. Fortunately most come with their very own installation kit, reducing the amount of work you have to do substantially! Here are some basic steps to follow to set up your under the counter water filtrations system:

1. Remove the water filtration system from the box it comes in (that part is easy!).
2. Turn off your sinks water using the shutoff valve (this is usually located beneath the sink).
3. Disconnect the cold water line from the shutoff valve. You may need to use a wrench to loosen the nut that holds the tube to your sinks faucet.
4. Place the water filtration unit under the cabinet by the wall that is closest to the cold water line. Using a magic marker or pencil you can mark where you'll need to drill holes to mount the bracket that will hold your filter.
5. Drill the screws in place that hold the filtration cartridge.
6. Connect your water purifiers to your sinks water line.
7. Connect a line that goes from the purifier to your tap.

Now, your instructions may vary slightly based on the type of water filtration unit you have. Usually however you can get by with a wrench, possibly a drill and a screwdriver. Once you have your filter in place you can slowly turn your faucet back on and check to make sure that all connection points are tightly sealed off (so no water leaks). It's really that easy!

Faucet Mounted Water FiltersThese are by far the easiest to install and don't require you use any tools. If you primarily want to make sure you have clean drinking water in you home and don't want to invest in a cartridge filtration system, a faucet mounted water filter will work just fine. All you need to do to install them is unscrew the aerator on your sinks spout and attach the filter to it. Usually is screws on. You will have to replace the filter cartridges in this type of filter regularly. Some find a faucet mounted unit may slightly decrease the pressure of water, but this really isn't too much of an inconvenience for most people.

Facts About Home Water Filtration UnitsYou should remember that a sink specific water filtration unit will remove particles and contaminates only from the water in the sink that has the filter attached. Most people select the kitchen sink as the ideal sink for a filtration device. Why? This is where you do your cooking, wash your food and where many people get their drinking water. Some people prefer to have a separate filter for the bathrooms in the house where they wash their hands and brush their teeth. Fortunately many faucet mounted versions are very inexpensive, thus having one installed at each sink is usually not too much of a problem!

If you decide to clean all of the water in your home you can opt for a whole house water filtration device. Installation for a whole house water filter is a bit more complicated than installation for an under the sink or faucet unit. You can usually however, still install the product on your own using the instructions and installation kit that comes with most units. Remember, when you filter the water coming into and out of your home, you enhance your body's health and well being. Our bodies are made up of 90% water after all. We might as well give our bodies the best water we possibly can!

About The Author:Antigone Arthur is a successful freelance writer with 10 years of professional experience providing consumers with informative articles on such topics as home water filters, benefits of drinking water, and water filtration systems.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/

Faux Painting Techniques

In the last 10 years, faux painting techniques have gone from obscure to popular, from the realm of professionals to do-it-yourself projects. These techniques are not difficult although they can be time consuming (what decorating or remodeling project isn't though) and require quick hands.

Called "faux" painting because these techniques mimic or create a false look of stone, texture, leather, and more, you will find that the styles fall into one of two types: additive or subtractive. Additive (also called positive) techniques simply mean that you add color onto the wall. Sponging is the most common of this type. Conversely, subtractive (also referred to as negative) techniques means you take paint off after it has been applied. Ragging is a common subtractive technique. Most negative techniques use glazes and require that you move quickly before the glaze dries.

When it comes to glazes, there are two types: latex (water based) or oil based. Latex is by far easier since it cleans up with soap and water, but oil based glazes provide longer working times and generally provide a harder, more durable finish. However, for do-it-yourselfers, I recommend latex glazes and working in small areas at a time. I have also seen solutions that you can add to the glaze to lengthen the working time. For your first glazing job, you may well want to consider using this additive available at finer paint supply stores.

Here are the various type of faux painting techniques:

Sponging: Probably the easiest method, you apply paint to a wall with a natural sea sponge. It provides a richly textured look. In addition to good looks, it's a simple way to camouflage an uneven or repaired crack wall. Use a couple of colors over the base paint to add greater depth. Be bold or subtle; it's up to you. You can use glaze or paint just as easily with this technique. I've seen this done in a negative manner, but it is most commonly performed as a positive method.

Ragging/Rag rolling: Typically a negative technique, you paint a tinted glaze over the base painted walls. The glaze should be tinted darker than the base coat, keeping in the same color family as the glaze allows some color through it as well. Either use a wadded up dry rag or twist a rag into a cylinder. Then dab or roll the rags to remove the glaze. You can use one or two colors over the base coat. You may also do this in a positive method like sponging for a softer look and texture.

Color Washing: In this additive technique, you apply the tinted glaze mixture over the base coat using a circular motion as if you were washing the wall. Use rags for a very soft look or a natural sea sponge for a more textured appearance.

Strié: Create a historical and aged texture to the wall, with this negative method. Roll tinted glaze over the base coat, then use a wall paper brush to make fine lines from top to bottom. The glaze should be darker than the base coat to allow the lighter base to show through the fine lines.
Striping: The only difficult part of this positive technique is getting your stripes straight. Be sure to use a level or drop a plumb line. Tape off your stripes, then paint every other one with glaze. If you use a bold color, you do not need to tint the glaze to get a delightful two-tone effect. For softer colors, you may wish to slightly darken the glaze although it is not necessary. This technique may also be combined with color washing as you color wash the stripes for more interest and texture. Of course, for a more dramatic look, you can use paint in complementary or various colors.

Dry Brushing: This is a positive method in which you use a small amount of paint on a brush in herringbone patterns to create the texture. You will need tow or three colors to achieve the best results.

Frottage: Using plastic sheets for this negative method, tinted glaze is applied over the base coat and then plastic sheets are applied and smoothed over the glaze. Once the wall is done, the plastic sheets are removed for a marbling effect.

Faux finishes can provide interest and texture to your rooms - and less expensively than wall paper. While you may need to block out a full day to do the work, by the end of the day, you can sit back and admire the rich, luxurious look of your new room.

About the Author: - Julie Lohmeier is the veteran of numerous home remodeling and building projects and has seen the entire spectrum of home improvement. She shares her remodeling tips, home decorating ideas, and other various rants at http://www.myhomeredux.com?FAUX_GO.

Question: Any easy way to remove Textured popcorn from ceiling

Can existing indoor textured (popcorn) ceilings be treated with a solution and troweled or flattened to form a new texture on ceiling without actually removing the texture completely?

Any advice would be helpful.

Building Your Dream Home – Part 3

Exterior Framing Continues

With the home's sub-floor down and the exterior walls framed and up, the framing crew was on to the roof. Though the roof was rather simple in structure with just a 12/12 pitch and no valleys it was a significant framing undertaking due to just the size and height of it. The house was 32 feet wide by 44 feet in length, and the exterior side walls stood 11 feet tall in the great room. This exterior wall height of 11 feet translated into a roof ridge that was 27 feet off the floor of the great room. Consequently staging was required to install the ridge pole and roof rafters. In addition, since the span from the top of the walls to the ridge was so long, heavy 2x12s were required for the roof rafters. Within a week, however, the team had completed the installation of the roof rafters and the house began to take on real shape.

I should comment briefly about the sub-floor and exterior walls before I move on.

I decided on using ¾" tongue and groove plywood for the sub-flooring rather than OSB/particle board as I was concerned that the OSB was too sensitive to moisture. I was concerned about this, both from the construction phase and from normal home use. I was concerned that during the construction phase that snow and ice could potentially lead to damage such as warping. I have seen this before when OSB was used on sub-flooring. I was also concerned that during the life of the home, that there could be water incidents, e.g. a leaking dishwasher or washer machine that also could also lead to water damage to the floor. I also believe that plywood is stronger and that it would provide for a more solid and rigid floor.

Regarding the exterior wall framing I used 2x6 construction. This is typical in New England as the additional wall depth allows for higher insulation factors; a must in colder climates.

Sheathing the Outside of the Home

In order to get plumbing and electric contractors onto a site typically they want the home "buttoned up". This includes the roof shingled and the doors and windows on. Thus my framing crew moved onto the exterior sheathing once the walls and roof framing were complete.
As with the sub-floor, I again chose plywood for the exterior sheathing for the same reasons mentioned earlier. On the exterior walls ½" exterior grade plywood was used. On the roof 5/8" exterior grade plywood was used. I know many builders today use OSB for both the walls and roof, however, I still believe for stronger construction plywood is the way to go.
The sheathing effort took about a week to complete. During this time exterior doors and windows showed up on the site. Staging the delivery of material reduces theft and insurance risk as well as keeps a less cluttered construction site. However, as I have indicated earlier, communication is critical when you are doing "Just-in-Time" material delivery.

Installing Exterior Doors and Windows

The installation of the doors and windows was a major undertaking for this project as the lake side view of the home was literally a wall of windows; 32 feet in width and 27 feet in height. A great deal of engineering had gone into the window design so that the 10 large custom windows would fit together like a jig saw puzzle. This said, when the windows arrived on site and were inspected, it was determined that some of them were not built correctly to the dimensions specified. After much debate with the framing crew, the window vendor and me we reached a compromise on sharing the cost of fixing the windows. The window vendor took back the improperly sized windows and the framing crew began the installation of the doors and what windows they could install. Fortunately the window vendor was able to return to the site with the properly sized windows within a few days and the construction phase did not miss a beat.

Completing the Interior Framing

With the doors and windows installed, the framing crew proceeded to complete the Interior Framing. This was an exciting time, as the rooms began to take real shape. You could now walk down hallways and into bedrooms and closet areas. Within just a few days the interior walls were complete and the framing crew proceeded onto the roof for the shingling.

I should note that 2x4 construction was used on the interior walls as insulation was not required on the interior walls.

Shingling the Roof

The last task to complete before the house could be classified as "Buttoned Up" was to install the shingles on the roof. Fortunately my framing crew was also able to do this task, thus eliminating the need for yet another subcontractor.

I chose a 30 year architectural shingle due to the quality and look I was trying to achieve on the home.

Though relatively a simple roof, it was quite large and the weather was less than hospitable. Consequently it took nearly 2 weeks to complete this task. However, with the roof complete, my electric and plumbing contractors were now able to begin their work.

Also, with the main house now structurally complete, the framing crew moved onto the garage framing and construction phase. As a result of staging the garage behind the main home construction phase, I was able to have subcontractors work in parallel without getting in each others way.

Rough Electric and Plumbing

With the house "Buttoned-Up", my Electric and Plumber subcontractors showed up to begin the roughing in phase of their respective tasks.

Rough Electric

I had met a few days before on site with the Electric subcontractor to discuss the placement of all the wall outlets and switches, as well as where the light fixtures would be situated. During our discussion he marked the wall studs for the placements of the electric wiring boxes so that we could visualize the entire electric wiring scheme. We also marked where the telephone and cable boxes would reside.

During the electrical rough in wiring phase, the electrician installed all the wiring boxes and ran wire from the boxes to where the main circuit panel box would reside.

Rough Plumbing

As with the Electrical Subcontractor, I had met several weeks earlier with the Plumbing Contractor. During this meeting we discussed the form of heat for the home, as well as where the bathrooms and kitchen were to reside in the home. We also discussed types of bathroom fixtures including tubs, sinks and toilets. Consequently, when he showed up on site he new exactly where to run main drain and supply pipes and vent stacks. He also roughed in all of the plumbing for each bathroom and kitchen plumbing fixture.

Within a week both the Electrical and Rough Plumbing contractors had completed their tasks and had successfully passed their respective inspections.

To Be Continued ...
In Part 4 of “Building Your Dream House”, Electric and Plumbing continue and the Kitchen Design is explained. Stay tuned ..........

Sealing a Deck

A deck is an extension of your home’s living space and where you will spend much of your time during the summer months. Consequently, it needs to be treated and cared for as much as your home’s inside rooms.

Most important to the care of your deck is regularly sealing it. This is particularly true if you want your deck to maintain the natural color of the wood.

Sealing a deck is critical in order to preserve the life and look of the wood. The sealant preserves the beauty of the natural wood by protecting it from both water and sun damage.

When to Apply the Deck Sealant

In order to preserve the natural wood look for many years, I typically apply the sealant every year. Also, I usually apply it in late summer/early fall as I live in New England. I do this because of the concern of snow lying on the deck for long periods of time during the winter months. My concern is in the acidity of the water in the snow. By putting on a sealant just prior to snow season, I can provide peak protection against the prolonged damaging effects of the acid contained in the water. In hotter climates, where there is less snow, I would suggest applying the deck sealer in late spring.


Clean the deck prior to Sealing

First, remove all of the deck furniture off of the deck.

Prior to sealing, it is then best to power wash the deck and let it thoroughly dry. You may need to use a stiff bristly brush to get off any material that is not being removed by the power washer. Pine pitch frequently requires the services of this tool. There are a variety of products offered by sealant manufactures that can also assist in the deck sealant preparation.

After power washing it may take 24-48 hours, or even longer, for the deck to thoroughly dry, pending weather conditions. Make sure the deck is completely dry prior to applying the sealant. Otherwise the sealant may not be appropriately absorbed into the wood’s surface.

Once the deck is dry, and you are about ready to begin sealing, use a leaf blower to remove any debris that may have fallen onto the deck’s surface since you power washed it. If you do not have a leaf blower, than simply sweep the deck.

Sealing the deck

First, the deck sealer should not be applied if the temperature is below 50 degrees Fahrenheit and if rain is forecasted in the next 24 hours. Otherwise the sealant may not absorb properly, nor dry properly.

Using a brush apply the sealant around all the deck edges and posts. Once the edging is complete, use a sprayer, brush or roller to apply the sealant to the deck surface. Make sure that the sealant is firmly pressed into the wood surface to maximize the penetration of the sealant into the wood.

Typically only one coat is recommended by most deck sealers.

Though most manufactures suggest the deck is ready for walking on after 24 hours, I would recommend waiting a little longer if the weather has not been ideal for drying conditions.

Once the deck is dry, return the deck furniture and enjoy the beauty of your deck for another year.